Cinema and tourism

Bertolucci’s *Novecento* was released 50 years ago: a journey through Emilia (red and black)

Following the exhibition in Parma, the film sets featuring De Niro and Depardieu have become tourist attractions. Between Roncole di Busseto and Guastalla

by Francesco Prisco

Aggiornato il 3 settembre 2026, ore 14:27

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La locandina di «Novecento», film in due atti di Bernardo Bertolucci uscito nel settembre del 1976

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Some films never end. In the broadest sense, and not only that: this is the case with Novecento, Bertolucci’s political masterpiece on the ‘short century’, released half a century ago. The film’s running time is endless: its two parts, released two weeks apart in September 1976 (on 3 and 23 September), run for a total of 320 minutes.

The ambition of the director knows no bounds. Or rather: Author. That is the only way to describe a 35-year-old man who takes the parallel lives of two young men born on the same day in 1901 on the same farm in the Lower Po Valley – a wealthy bourgeois and a proletarian of unknown parentage – and transforms them into the perfect metaphor for the class struggle. Spanning the end of the Belle Époque, the Great War, the first agricultural strikes, the rise of fascism and the Resistance, culminating under the sun on 25 April.

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La locandina di «Novecento», dalla mostra «Bernardo Bertolucci. Il Novecento»

The budget for the Italia-France-Germany-USA co-production with 20th Century Fox at the helm: 4 billion old lire, double the amount it had taken Napoli to snatch striker Beppe Savoldi from Bologna, in what was, at that time, the most expensive transfer of all time. In Novecento, on the other hand, there were stars of the calibre of Robert De Niro, fresh from The Godfather: Part II, and the icon of the Nouvelle Vague, Gérard Depardieu, Dominique Sanda and Stefania Sandrelli, Burt Lancaster and Donald Sutherland, the cinematography of Vittorio Storaro and the music of Ennio Morricone. And we’ll stop there, though we could go on for a long time yet.

Bernardo Bertolucci sul set di «Novecento» (Foto di Angelo Novi, courtesy Fondazione Bernardo Bertolucci)

But Bertolucci’s Novecento is ‘endless’ above all because it still speaks to us today: it speaks of workers’ rights in the country where those who oppose the ‘caporalato’ system are burnt alive; of the advent of the mechanical rake in an era when artificial intelligence threatens to wipe out millions of jobs; of the autocratic shortcut that Capital has been attempting for a good hundred years. In short: anniversary or not, there is more than one reason to return to Novecento. Starting with watching the film: the two parts are available to stream on Prime Video in the paid section ‘Once Upon a Time… Channel’.

The exhibition in Parma

Then in Parma, in the Palazzo del Governatore, ‘Bernardo Bertolucci. Il Novecento”, a rich and varied exhibition curated by Gabriele Pedullà, which focused on the making of the film, whilst broadening the discussion to include History (with a capital H) and the stories (with a small h) it recounts. The peasant struggles of the early twentieth century were brought to life first and foremost through The Fourth Estate by Pellizza da Volpedo (the iconic marching proletarian mass that Bertolucci wanted in the opening credits), reimagined in the contemporary version by Taner Ceylan. But there was also an authentic Pellizza (La vecchia nella stalla, 1904–05), just as there were the covers of *Domenica del Corriere* depicting the repression of the first agricultural strikes.

«Novecento» di Bernardo Bertolucci, le immagini della mostra di Parma

Photogallery20 foto

There was, of course, plenty from the set of Novecento: from the marvellous black-and-white photographs by Angelo Novi to the original script, right through to ABCinema, the documentary in which Giuseppe Bertolucci, Bernardo’s brother and co-screenwriter, transformed the behind-the-scenes footage of the film into a reflection on the Seventh Art. And there was also a great deal about the historical and social context in which Novecento was made: the Corteo by Mario Schifano, a pop-Maoist procession, and the Cimitero partigiano rosso by Franco Angeli, the enthusiastic review with which *Rolling Stone* welcomed the American release, the contemporary posters for both highbrow and popular films from Italian cinema, and the images of the legendary football match between the cast of *Novecento* and that of its ‘twin’ film Salò, or the 120 Days of Sodom (1975) by Pier Paolo Pasolini, released a few weeks after the tragic death of the director, who was also a close friend of the Bertolucci family. For the record: the cast of Novecento won, but Bernardo ‘cheated’ by recruiting a few promising youngsters from Parma’s youth teams. Including a certain Carletto Ancelotti.

Il colpo d’occhio sul cortile della Corte degli Angeli, principale set di «Novecento»

The Power of Class Struggle

The beauty of the *Novecento* film set is that it is still ‘accessible’. Starting with the farmstead where the class struggle between the bourgeois Berlinghieri family and the proletarian Dalcò family takes place. It is situated in Roncole di Busseto (Parma), just a few kilometres from the birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi, and was built in the early 19th century by Prince Giovanni Vidoni de’ Soresina to a design by the Cremonese architect Luigi Voghera. A farm established to produce the finest cheese in the region, Parmigiano Reggiano, based on an innovative vision: the wellbeing of both people and animals at the heart of the production process. Today, two-thirds of the property has been taken over by Alessandro Lusardi and his wife Milly Freddi, who have transformed it into the Corte degli Angeli agritourism estate.

L’interno del podere di «Novecento» come appare in una foto dal set di Angelo Novi (courtesy Fondazione Bernardo Bertolucci)

The guided tour is a real treat for all fans of the film: in the monumental barn, the hook on which Alfredo/Lancaster hangs himself is still there. Here, to distinguish the early 20th-century settings from those of 1945, Bertolucci insisted on filming cows of different breeds, in keeping with Italy’s agro-industrial history. Just a few metres away lay the immense track along which the Maestro moved his dolly. And you can walk through the gateway that welcomes the procession of red flags during the socialists’ long march. This vast courtyard will host the trial of the Boss (De Niro) and Olmo’s (Depardieu) speech, in which he breaks the fourth wall. From the staircase where Depardieu first meets Sandrelli, you reach the attic where young Olmo used to rear silkworms. There is the Dalcò family’s dining room, and it is possible to stay in their bedrooms. In short: everything here speaks of Novecento. Starting with Lusardi, who grew up on the estate: his family were working on the farm when Bertolucci’s cast arrived. And he, a child fifty years ago, was chosen by the Maestro to play the part of the ‘louse-ridden boy’.

Le stalle della Corte degli Angeli, set di alcune delle sequenze più celebri di «Novecento»

Between Guastalla and Lombardy

But the set of Novecento does not stop at the court of Roncole di Busseto. A stroll through the historic centre of Guastalla (Reggio Emilia), for example, brings to life the town’s setting, from Anita’s Casa del Popolo to the rampages of the early Fascists. If you then move from Emilia to Lombardy, you can find further details relating to the Berlinghieri family. At the Badia farmhouse in Voltido (Cremona), the Dalcò family will be celebrating, whilst there is little to celebrate at the Shrine of the Blessed Virgin Mary delle Grazie in Curtatone (Mantua), where Attila/Sutherland raises funds from the enterprises in the Bassa to set up the local branch of the National Fascist Party, in order to stifle any proletarian demands. All with the full blessing of the Church.

Le riprese di «Novecento» in piazza a Guastalla (courtesy Fondazione Bernardo Bertolucci)

Beyond the film’s actual locations, it is the view of the Bassa countryside that brings back the atmosphere of Novecento: haystacks piled high in the fields, ditches teeming with frogs, centuries-old buildings constructed for work yet still designed with an eye for beauty. All this comes together to form the marvellous backdrop that Bertolucci chose for his highly distinctive epic on the class struggle. Because, as Oliver Stone would say, ‘Bernardo loved Jean-Luc Godard. But he was mad about Gone with the Wind’.

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