A walk through history in the alleys and squares of Spoleto

There is a completely different Spoleto from the Spoleto of the Festival of Two Worlds. As much the latter is glossy and worldly, world-famous, as the former is shy, shy, silent and solitary. Out of season, in the dead of winter and shrouded in fog, the festival and its prestigious history are only an indistinct echo, a presence that hovers everywhere but only as a shy extra. This is because a thousand-year-old urban agglomeration imposes itself on the scene. With a few rare exceptions, such as the splendid Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta - a Romanesque testimony of dazzling and immediate beauty - it owes its charm to a singular alchemy of slowly unveiling treasures and suggestions generated by narrow, semi-deserted alleys. This Spoleto is ideal for a weekend getaway. Don't let the cold or the fog that often obscures the panorama stop you: on the contrary, it will crystallise it in an almost magical atmosphere.

Once you arrive, it is ideal to get a general idea of what awaits you by wandering for a few hours among the squares and alleys without a precise destination. It will be like walking through history, crossing centuries by just a few metres: from Roman walls to medieval buildings. And with every step you will discover glimpses that seem like small works of art cloaked in mystery. If you want to follow a precise itinerary, start from the small (deconsecrated) Church of Saints John and Paul, open to the public every weekend, in the alley of the same name. Deconsecrated on the outside, magnificent inside, with frescoes of rare beauty dating from the 12th to the 16th century. A place of silence, as is all of Spoleto in winter, far from the clamour. From here you can reach the majestic Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta: from the top of the steps overlooking the square on which the cathedral stands, the scenery in front of you will leave you breathless.

This is probably the most famous monument in Spoleto, with the upper part of the façade in Romanesque style and the Renaissance portico, the interior in Baroque style. It has a radiant and instantaneous beauty. A word of advice: make a stop at the Duomo at night, it is worth it. Between a church and an aristocratic palace, keep wandering, between flights of steps and squares, such as the beautiful Market Square, surrounded by narrow streets, with a monumental fountain on one side, and then discover the Arch of Drusus, the Roman arch from which access to the city was once gained. And go as far as the Roman Theatre, only brought to light in the 1950s, with a diameter of about 70 metres. Don't forget the Rocca Albornoziana, at the highest point of the town: a 14th-century fortress that was part of the fortifications commissioned by the Papal State, it dominates the valley with four angular towers. Its rooms now house the National Museum of the Duchy of Spoleto, with exhibits ranging from Roman times to late antiquity. If you want to learn more about the world-famous Festival of Two Worlds, visit the house of Maestro Gian Carlo Menotti, who was the creator of this event. Overlooking the Piazza del Duomo, it has two floors. There you will find lots of posters, books, photos. A condensation of the life of this great composer. But that is another story.

Visiting Spoleto (not even 36,000 inhabitants in the province of Perugia) in winter or in the early spring awakening holds many surprises. In either case, know that the historic centre, at an altitude of 396 metres, is small and lends itself well to being visited on foot. Also for those who love food and wine tours: not to be missed among the typical dishes are the strangozzi alla spoletina (homemade fettuccine, made with a dough without eggs, seasoned with tomato sauce, garlic, oil and parsley) or the crescionda cake, as soft as pudding, made with eggs, flour, chocolate and sugar. These are just a few examples of the many specialities you can enjoy in restaurants such as Sabatini, in the historic centre, or 9Cento: both graft innovation and research into the great Umbrian tradition. For accommodation, you will be spoilt for choice between hotels and b&s. If you wish to stay in the centre (recommended) and are looking for an intimate atmosphere, there is always the Aurora Boutique Hotel and Private SpA, which also offers a very rich and varied breakfast. If you want to reach Spoleto by car, it is a good idea to park in one of the three parking areas outside the ZTL connected to the centre by stairs, escalators and lifts. A few minutes and you will be at your destination. If instead you opt for the train, the railway station is on the Ancona-Rome line.