The new era of cosmetic wardrobes has begun: when fabric heals

Born out of the encounter between scientific research and technology, they are transforming the act of dressing from a purely fashionable gesture to a choice of well-being. The decision of how to dress can be oriented not only by the colours we like, the fit or the aesthetics, but also by the benefits and healing qualities of certain fabrics... Imagine wearing a T-shirt that moisturises the skin or a pair of trousers that release vitamin C and E, and promote muscle recovery.

Hyaluronic acid, microbes, zinc nanoparticles: a lexicon more from a scientific laboratory than a wardrobe. It tells of the new frontier of functional clothing, where cosmetic-textile garments are born from the encounter between research and a technology known as Advanced Delivery from Cosmetics to Clothes. The difference cannot be seen, but it can be felt, and ranges from underwear that promises firmness and hydration to anti-acne masks. "We are talking about one of the most interesting strands of biotextiles, which is developed from technologies integrated directly into the polymer matrix or applied to the surface of the fabric. These are fabrics fortified with various active ingredients that do not just dress the body, but interact with the skin's biological processes,' explains Alessia Moltani, Professor of Materials Science and Technology at Istituto Marangoni and expert in smart textiles. "Applications may concern microcirculation, with an anti-cellulite effect, thermo-perception, muscle recovery and balancing the skin microbiome'.

One of the latest declinations of carewear is called C+ and comes from the French brand Coperni: black tops, bodysuits and leggings with a basic, second-skin effect. In line with the brand's minimalist aesthetic, these garments combine skincare and everyday wear. The fabric, developed in collaboration with Swiss biotech HeiQ, is designed to follow the body's movements and activate with heat and friction, gradually releasing a mix of probiotic and prebiotic components.

The aim is to maintain the natural balance of the skin microbiome - the 'good' bacteria that live on the skin and preserve its barrier function - and accompany its natural self-repair processes. Dermatologically tested, the material maintains softness and performance over time and, according to the project's specifications, helps to improve the skin's hydration and luminosity even after repeated and continuous washing. Coperni's proposal is part of a broad panorama of experiments that are rethinking the relationship between fabric and epidermis. As does BeGood in Italia, active in athleisure: trousers, tops and tank tops made of Dermofibre, which combines minerals such as magnesium and zinc with microcapsules of aloe, vitamin E, caffeine or retinol gradually released. These garments are designed to stimulate microcirculation and promote skin hydration and elasticity, with perceived benefits on skin tone and firmness.

On a more experimental level is Skin Series, the project of British designer Rosie Broadhead, who has been working as a textile researcher at the University of Ghent in collaboration with microbiologist Chris Callewaert since 2020. After a career in technical clothing, Broadhead focuses her research on a line of industrially knitted undergarments with yarns containing active ingredients, such as algae, zinc and vitamin E, chosen for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and cell renewal support properties. With a plus: while most sportswear brands focus on synthetic or chemical fabrics, his research is part of the debate on the sustainability of materials. In a European regulatory context increasingly focused on the reduction of microplastics, these experiments point to alternative yarns, for example based on chitosan or cellulose, which are more compatible with biodegradability requirements.