Fashion

For Armani, revenues slightly down, but investments and profitability up

Sales 2025 at 2.2 billion, rising to over 4 billion with licences - Group CEO Giuseppe Marsocci: 'Independent of banks thanks to liquidity of 600 mln'

by Giulia Crivelli

Eredi creativi. Silvana Armani e Leo Dell’Orco, rispettivamente responsabili delle collezioni donna e uomo del gruppo Armani, circondati da mobili e complementi della linea Armani/Casa

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Not a week goes by without confirmation from the Armani Group that it is still and always the founder's spirit that inspires the company's short, medium and long-term choices. It is not a question of slavishly following the path traced by Giorgio Armani, who passed away on 4 September 2025, the year in which the brand's 50th anniversary was celebrated.

Balance between past and future

The difficult thing is to believe and build this alchemy day after day: on the one hand, to remain faithful to principles and vision, and on the other, to respond, on a daily basis, to the many unknowns, changes and surprises - not all of them positive - that surround every person, company and country and, increasingly, the global fashion industry. "Almost eight months have passed since Mr Armani's death and the void he has left is undeniable. But every day we reap some fruits of what he sowed in each of us and obviously in the group,' says Giuseppe Marsocci, the company's CEO and general manager. 'Among these fruits are also the results of 2025, a very difficult year for the entire fashion system, both Italia and global, and marked by geopolitical turbulence that will become more acute in 2026. Despite everything, we managed to contain the drop in revenues, closing at 2.192 billion, 2.8% less than in 2024. A figure that almost doubles to 4 billion if we also consider the direct turnover of licensees."

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The composition of turnover

An incidence, that of induced turnover, which has been very high for several years and which has been indicated in the past as a criticality. Giuseppe Marsocci disagrees: 'Part of Mr. Armani's legacy of corporate culture concerns licensing, in which he was a pioneer, as eyewear and cosmetics demonstrate. They have never been commercial agreements based solely on royalties, to be disregarded in order to look only at the sales figures of individual product categories entrusted to third parties. Giorgio Armani,' explains the group's CEO, 'conceives every licensing agreement as a long-term partnership, built on creative ping pong, respect for the technical know-how of partners and collaboration on marketing and communication strategies. It is no coincidence that the current expiry dates of the two main licences are far away: 2037 for L'Oréal and 205o for EssilorLuxottica'.

Group shareholding respecting the will

A real assist, this one from Marsocci, to ask for clarification on the future of the company's shareholding structure: in the will opened on 9 September 2025 Armani asked to sell 15% of the group, after twelve months and in any case within eighteen months "from the opening of the succession", "as a priority" to a group between Lvmh, EssilorLuxottica or L'Oréal or "to other companies or groups identified with the agreement of Leo (Dell'Orco, ed.) operating in the world of fashion and luxury and of equal standing" (see the article by Marigia Mangano that appeared in Il Sole 24 Ore on 1 April).

"There is nothing new, although we continue to perceive a great deal of respect and interest in the Armani Group," Marsocci replies. "We also count the months that pass, but we remain focused on the management of the company, all the more so given the geopolitical scenario. In the first quarter of 2026 the trends, explains the CEO, are in line with those of 2025, including currency penalisation. But there are many factors prompting cautious optimism. "The profitability ratios in 2025 have improved: ebitda has grown by 3.2%, from 148 to 152.7 million, ebit has reached 52.6 million, also an improvement on 2024. Mr Armani was very keen on the freedom that comes from low debt,' recalls Marsocci, 'and we do not intend to deviate from this vision, on the strength of a net liquidity of almost 600 million and a net worth of almost 2 billion, which corresponds to 51% of total assets.

Polarisation and success in high fashion

The investments made in 2025 were high and self-financed and will continue in 2026, focusing on digital transition, sustainability and perfecting the retail network for all brands, from Armani/Casa to the A/X line. "The polarisation of consumption spares no one and for us too it has been a surprising year for the Armani Privé haute couture line," adds the group's CEO. "However, we do not intend to neglect any other segment, starting with home, where Mr Armani entered 25 years ago. He sowed without haste or anxiety to reap the fruits, considering furniture and accessories first and foremost a completion of the Armani world. Since this year, however, we can say that Armani/Casa has become a real business, in terms of volume and profitability, also thanks to the numerous residential projects in Italia and abroad. 2026 will be the year of the renovation of the two most famous Armani Hotels, Milan and Dubai, and we will refine the retail network, focusing heavily on tailor-made services for private clients and contract projects".

Bonds with the sports world

Last but not least, another of Giorgio Armani's passions, sport: 'EA7 had great exposure during the Olympics and links with skiing, tennis, sailing and even horse riding are bound to grow stronger. Again: it is a way to respect the founder's vision but also to grow business opportunities, as, we believe, he would have wanted'.

The strength of direct retail

The directly operated shop channel grew by a total of 2% at constant exchange rates in 2025, while indirect channels recorded -7%, "mainly reflecting the drop in wholesale orders and the reasonable prudence of distribution partners in the overall market context". In the broad Armani portfolio, the performance was better in the full price and high-end channels, and double-digit growth in 2025 as a whole was recorded in "the home, hotel and F&B divisions, confirming both more dynamic experiential market segments and the lifestyle credibility of the brand," recalls CEO Marsocci.

Upcoming initiatives: tennis

With the start of the Internazionali BNL d'Italia, for which EA7 Emporio Armani confirms its role as official outfitter for the second consecutive year, the brand renews its commitment to the world of tennis by presenting the new Tennis Spring-Summer 2026 collection. The line represents a coherent evolution of the EA7 vision in sport: a balance between technical performance and stylistic identity, designed to accompany the contemporary athlete on and off the court. In recent years, EA7 has consolidated its presence in international tennis through targeted partnerships and the development of high-performance garments, strengthening the dialogue between innovation and design.

Appointment at Sea

One month to go until the start of the Giorgio Armani Superyacht Regatta, an event that returns with a large fleet to open superyacht racing in the Mediterranean. There are 18 superyachts taking part in the 2026 edition, organised by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda with the support of title sponsor Giorgio Armani, scheduled from 26 to 30 May. The competitors who will be meeting on the quaysides in front of the YCCS also include the five entries for the Southern Wind RendezVous, which will be celebrating its twentieth edition, a formula that includes daily group sailings with arrival at one of the many coves in the La Maddalena Archipelago for lunch, followed by a return to Porto Cervo for the regatta's social programme. For the second consecutive year SØRVIND by Giorgio Armani, the Southern Wind 105 chartered by the Armani Group to represent the brand directly on the race course, will be present at the regatta, confirming the link between Giorgio Armani and the sporting life of the event.

Another passion: horses

The countdown has started for the Longines Versilia Horse Show presented by Giorgio Armani 2026, with riders from 19 nations, an edition that promises to be of the highest level. From 7 to 10 May, many of the best athletes on the world circuit are expected in Lido di Camaiore. On the Giorgio Armani Arena grounds, they will put on a show during the four days of this important international horse show, which this year has reached five stars, the maximum achievable.

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