Manufacture

Italian Jacquard brings furnishing fabrics to clothing

Alida Valle in Turin creates capsule collections of coats and jackets starting with the research of fabrics and designs

3' min read

3' min read

A lifetime spent in furnishing fabrics and recently also in capsule collection clothing. An architect, born and raised in Chieri where the family business was based, Alida Valle is now an elegant 79-year-old lady who still has a desire to experiment and design fabrics.

"I have taken up a long tradition, if you think that centuries ago there was no distinction between furnishing and clothing fabrics, as in the time of Louis XIV," she says. "I graduated in architecture, but then I started working in my father's company, also to rejuvenate a product that no longer met the public's taste! Italian Jaquard is still active today in the production of furnishing fabrics for the most important furniture brands.

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Chieri, at the time of Alida's birth and youth, was a textile and cotton-producing area with up to 165 companies. Even earlier, in the Middle Ages, moleskin was produced here and hemp, flax, 'guado', a pigment for dyeing fabrics indigo, was grown from Isatis, also the cloth for jeans, a production and manufacture that was later transferred to Genoa, from which jeans take their name. "As denim comes from de Nimes, another production area for the famous fabric," says Alida.

"The textile industry has characterised the history of the city of Chieri,' Alida continues. 'But today everything has changed and many companies have closed or moved away due to the crisis in the sector. In the pre-industrial period from the end of the 15th century to the middle of the 18th century, more than half of the population was active in 'beating, bleaching, dyeing, weaving', we read in some texts.

The offices of Italian Jacquard today are in Turin, on the Lungo Po. His father's company already worked with foreign countries, in particular the United States. "I chose architecture so as not to do my father's job, but I found myself carrying on his business when he had a serious health problem, and I was still very young,' she says. I had to study and learn a lot and I became passionate about it.

I have had great satisfaction from this job. I have always done a lot of research into furnishing fabrics, my core business, but in the end I also chose to have fun with fashion. That is why I still use the furnishing fabrics that I design myself to make outerwear and clothing. They are all one-off pieces, from coats to jackets. The fabrics are very worked (being jacquard fabrics) but the patterns are simple'.

Production is localised and relies on weavers, dyers and other collaborators, all located in Piedmont and Lombardy, he explains. The product is therefore totally Made in Italy. "It is I who study and design the fabric, then the textile design is made by a collaborator, who translates it for the loom. It is a story that combines the skills of a whole series of artisans who, with today's labour situation, could be destined to disappear, dispersing a heritage of precious knowledge. My iconic fabrics are matelassé and the production is done exclusively with natural fibres,' he says.

In the field of clothing a few years ago, a friendly collaboration was born with Simona Bortolotto, aka SissiOtto (in the photos).

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