Pitti Fragrances

Artistic perfumery is worth 450 million euros in Italy and continues to grow

2' min read

2' min read

The artistic perfumery market continues to march, a niche that in the last three years has shown itself to be solid in the face of the difficult economic situation, confirming its anti-cyclical characteristic. This is certified by the Observatory set up by the Fragranze exhibition on artistic perfumery, organised by Pitti Immagine and underway at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence (230 brands are exhibiting, 75% of them foreign) until 14 September.

"The desire for beauty and personal distinction represents a safe haven during periods of economic uncertainty," explains economist Marco Ricchetti, who conducted an analysis of the sector's evolution in recent years for the Observatory, interviewing 46 brands and distributors present at the Florentine show and analysing the balance sheets of a hundred or so brands from eight European countries (with an aggregate turnover of more than €1.2 billion).

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In 2025, 40 per cent of the respondents report strong revenue growth, 26 per cent moderate growth and only 5 per cent indicate a decline in sales. The year 2025 follows two bright years, with revenues growing by an average of 10% in 2023 and 10.6% in 2024 - based on the analysis of the international sample. The forecasts for next year are even more encouraging: 53% of the respondents expect strong growth in 2026 and 33% moderate growth. None expect contractions.

On profitability it is more difficult to make calculations (they are distorted by the results of some big brands), although the Observatory indicates an average pre-tax profit close to 9% and considers it satisfactory.

The fact that the artistic perfumery sector is made up of heterogeneous companies - investors, global fashion and cosmetics brands, investment funds, small and medium-sized brands preserving their artisanal identity - makes analysis more difficult.

In any case, the exhibitors interviewed indicated Germany, Italy and Spain as the fastest growing European markets (France is only fifth) and Poland, Romania and Hungary as emerging countries. Outside Europe the focus is on China and the United States, followed by the Gulf area.

The distribution landscape confirms the centrality of specialised perfumeries, which account for 70% for one third of the respondents and 40% of sales for half of the operators. Direct distribution is growing, with one third of respondents (mainly independent brands) realising more than 30% of sales in their own shops or through proprietary e-commerce. Online channels are gaining in importance. Clothing shops and concept stores also remain important for artistic perfumery (70 per cent of respondents also sell there). Finally, Generation Z and the Millennials - i.e. the 19-35 age group - are approaching artistic perfumery and are now perceived as the most dynamic group, even though two-thirds of operators continue to target the 35-50 age group. Young people under 18 are also seen as growing by 44% of exhibitors.

"These perceptions signal a potential for future development that could completely redefine the balance of the market and push towards distribution forms for the digital native generation," says Ricchetti, who estimates the value of the Italian artistic perfumery market at 450 million euros and the retail value of the European market at five billion euros.

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