Below the Arctic Circle: exploring the Troll Peninsula
A 15th-century sheep farm, nestled amongst fjords and mountains in the most remote part of Iceland: today it has become a base for fishermen, hikers, musicians and travellers who believe that luxury lies in moderation.
Iceland’s Troll Peninsula embodies a new approach to high-end travel, far removed from the notion of a perfect, run-of-the-mill getaway. No longer merely resorts, suites or tamed wilderness, but remote places where privilege is defined, above all, by moderation.
A landscape of fjords, mountains and rivers, featuring an old farmhouse converted into one of the country’s most remote lodges. Tröllaskagi, in Icelandic, is a narrow strip of land between the Skagafjörður and Eyjafjörður fjords, far from the beaten track, with small fishing villages and quiet roads. The name itself evokes a rugged landscape: in local folklore, trolls inhabit mountains and cliffs, and daylight turns them to stone. It is here that Deplar Farm, a 15th-century sheep farm converted into a lodge by Eleven Experience, offers thirteen rooms and functions more as a base for adventure than as a mere hotel. From the outside, it maintains an unobtrusive profile: a dark building with a green roof and large openings overlooking the landscape. Inside, the ambience becomes more sophisticated: an indoor-outdoor geothermal pool, a spa, a sauna, spaces for yoga and Pilates, a gym and two helipads.
The isolation remains, but with a range of amenities designed to make it liveable. This combination also shapes the way in which the area is explored. In summer, one of the reasons for venturing this far is fly fishing: Atlantic salmon, Arctic char and sea trout are sought in rivers where access is carefully regulated; only a very small number of rods are permitted each day, and every trip is organised with a guide, taking into account water and weather conditions. On some stretches, the number of anglers is extremely limited; on others, you can book an entire section of the river. The exclusivity lies not only in the rarity of the location, but in the chance to experience it without pressure, at a leisurely pace and with technical expertise. The same principle governs the rest of your stay. Depending on the season and conditions, the days may be extended to include mountain walks, horse-riding excursions, kayaking, whale watching, and helicopter tours to waterfalls, hot springs and lava fields.
In winter, the landscape takes on a completely different character and Deplar Farm becomes a base for skiing, heli-skiing and snow-based adventures. Rather than simply cramming in activities, the aim is to strike a balance in your interaction with the outdoors: choosing how much to expose yourself to the cold, the wind, the water and the physical exertion, whilst knowing you can always return to a warm and welcoming home. Returning to the lodge is, in fact, the other half of the experience. After the rivers, the trails or the snow, Deplar Farm is a haven of great comfort: with cuisine based on local produce, cosy rooms and large windows overlooking the valley. Also part of the lodge’s world is Flóki Studios, a recording studio designed for musicians and artists seeking a different kind of seclusion.
It seems even pop stars aren’t immune to the lure of the Troll Peninsula: Justin Bieber recorded some songs here for his album Swag. A minor detail, but not off-topic: even where everything seems so far away, the value lies not in owning the place, but in being able to access it for a limited and dedicated period of time. Luxury ceases to be synonymous with the absolute availability of things. It is a matter of accepting a compromise, a limit, a timeframe not determined solely by the traveller. Remoteness is not a distance to be collected, but a delicate relationship with places that are complex to navigate, without presuming to reduce them to mere experience.
