Berluti: Italian roots and a French heart, even in its new Milan boutique
Meeting with CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt to mark the opening of the new shop in Via Gesù: “Nothing is impossible at our workshop in Ferrara”
It is not often, in the world of luxury, that one senses such clear enthusiasm – or, as we might say, joie de vivre, given that he is French – in a CEO. This is exactly what Jean-Marc Mansvelt conveys; he has been at the helm of Berluti for just over two years. For many years, this LVMH maison was renowned ‘solely’ for its handcrafted footwear, but the group has since expanded it into clothing and accessories.
It is certainly a cause for celebration: Berluti has just opened its new boutique in Milan, moving from Via Montenapoleone to Via Gesù, a stone’s throw from the Four Seasons. Mansvelt’s joyful spirit, however, is clearly not linked solely to this milestone in Milan, but rather to the phase of evolution and consolidation – though this may seem a contradiction – that the fashion house is currently undergoing.
“Being part of a group like LVMH means having the great privilege of not rushing things: luxury houses need time to evolve, but also to be told their story. It takes consistency and patience to strengthen relationships of trust with long-standing customers, to attract new ones, or to tackle new markets,” says Jean-Marc Mansvelt. At the heart of it all is the care and quality of the product, from shoes to clothing, from accessories that are only seemingly secondary, such as socks, to the more eye-catching ones, such as glasses.”
Just like LVMH, which always describes itself as a group with a dual identity – French and Italian – Berluti embodies the fusion of these two cultures, in terms of taste, style and craftsmanship. ‘At the entrance to the boutique, we have placed a sculpture in the shape of a foot, surmounted by two inscriptions: Italian roots and a French heart,’ emphasises the CEO. “I believe Berluti is a unique example of alchemy in our sector: there is a great deal of the French, one might almost say the Parisian, in the style of the footwear and ready-to-wear, but the magic of the maison is also created by Italian craftsmanship, by the skilled hands of the people (around 400, ed. ) who work in the Ferrara factory and, of course, by an extra touch of Italian style.”
Moving the shop, whilst remaining within the Quadrilatero, might seem odd, but the CEO explains why Via Gesù was chosen: ‘We first brought this boutique concept to Tokyo, then to Milan, and the next stop will be Paris. Truly immersing oneself in the world of Berluti is not just a question of square metres, but of the layout of the space: in Montenapoleone we were spread over two floors, here we are on just one, with concentric rooms that resemble a house to explore, where every wall, shelf, surface and piece of furniture tells a small yet significant story. Buying a Berluti shoe, leather jacket or bag is an investment of time, as well as money, because they must be chosen with care,” adds the brand’s CEO.
