Industry

Biella, the textile district pioneers the traceability passport

Sustainability at the heart of corporate strategies: from budgets to ethical codes, from energy to supply chain pacts, the area is a laboratory of innovation

by Carlotta Rocci

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Talking about sustainability in Biella is an everyday occurrence. Haute couture and luxury brands, for which the Piedmontese textile district is a supplier, have been demanding certified products along the entire supply chain for several years now; Europe, for its part, sets targets that the textile world cannot ignore, but then again, the idea of controlled production, with a lower impact on the planet, is a theme that many companies in the area have embraced from the very beginning. All this makes Biella an area in the vanguard, where sustainability reports and codes of ethics have long since become part of company routines.

Tessilbiella, a company in Vigliano Biellese with almost 70 years of history and a production capacity of one million metres of fabric per year, for example, recently exceeded 40 per cent certified products out of its total production. "More and more brands demand certified materials and compliance with certain standards. The brands we work for have to account for their environmental impact," says Linda Crosa, one of the youngest voices in the company founded by her grandfather Adriano Crosa.

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"I believe that we, like most of the Biella district, have been able to move ahead on these issues precisely because of the high range of products for which we are suppliers," he says, "but I also think that sustainability is a tool to improve the efficiency of a company: any entrepreneur is interested in consuming less water and less energy because in the long run it decreases costs.

As of 1 January 2025, Tessilbiella has decided to purchase energy only from certified renewable sources; a part of it is produced directly with panels on the roofs of its factories. This experience has enabled the company to become part of several pilot projects. The Biella area, in fact, with Città Studi, an ITS dedicated to textiles and many companies with a research and development department, is a privileged place for experimentation.

Here, in 2022, MagnoLab was born, a network of companies conceived by six companies in the Biella textile sector that in Cerrione created a research and development centre available to companies - not only in the area - that can work on innovative processes according to the principle of 'innovation as a service'. The initial investment was around EUR 10 million; today, with investments exceeding EUR 15 million, there are 21 companies in the network, covering every aspect of the production process, from the yarn to the finished garment.

MagnoLab also leads many training projects. "Sustainability is not an option but a necessity, and our commitment is for every entrepreneur to steer their business towards this new way of doing business," explain Federico De Martini, MagnoLab vice president, and Marco Vesipa, programme manager. MagnoLab has started energy monitoring programmes for companies and the impact of recycled products compared to virgin ones. The issue of circularity is central.

"The aim is to develop concrete circularity solutions in a systemic way," they explain, "which is why we do not only have textile companies in the network: sometimes a yarn or fabric that cannot be recycled as such finds new life in another sector. So technical work uniforms that could not become yarn again can become objects.

For Lorenzo Piacentini, CEO of Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, sustainability is the only business model. "The company is organised with strategic and operational committees that work on optimising different processes, from water consumption, which we have cut by 17 per cent, to energy consumption,' Piacentini explains. 'We have developed a strategy of traceability and sourcing of raw materials also for the materials that arrive from suppliers, which are 90 per cent Italian. Furthermore, we work to create ecofriendly products: wool is biodegradable by definition, but we do research to create yarns coupled with other materials that are recycled and sustainable'. The company - 80 million turnover, 3 factories in an area of 50 kilometres between Biella and Vercelli, and 550 employees - published its first sustainability report in 2017, when few still had it.

The topic of the European digital textile passport, which Europe is calling for by 2030 but is still defining the terms for, is one of the goals that Biella companies are already working on.

The Vitale Barberis Canonico wool mill launched its digital passport a year ago, with a system that uses a QR code to narrate the journey 'from sheep to fabric', offering information on wool breeding, transport and processing.

The historical company in Pratrivero has completed the expansion of both its photovoltaic park and the second contact basin for ozone decolourisation at the wastewater treatment plant. The percentage of water recycled and reused in the dyeing and finishing departments continues to exceed 30%.

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