Bottle-fermented and ancestral wines: another approach to sparkling wines, straddling the line between rustic and refined
Originally popular, rustic wines, viewed with suspicion for years by the guardians of oenological orthodoxy, they now feature on the most sought-after wine lists
If the Metodo Classico is the king of sparkling wines in evening dress, bottle-fermented wine is the maverick cousin who turns up at the party on a bike but, in the end, still manages to make a name for himself. In recent years, bottle-fermented wines have become widespread in many wine bars, wine shops and even on numerous wine lists, often with a dedicated section. But what exactly does ‘bottle-fermented’ mean?
The principle is quite simple. The wine is bottled before fermentation is completely finished (in this case, we are referring to the Ancestral Method ), or with a small amount of must added to restart the fermentation process. The yeasts thus continue their work directly in the bottle, converting the residual sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide: this is how the bubbles are formed.
Unlike the Metodo Classico, here the wine is not typically disgorged – that is, the yeasts are not removed after the second fermentation. Once the yeasts have finished their work, they settle at the bottom, forming a natural sediment that often makes the wine slightly cloudy or hazy. It is that little ‘seabed’ that often surprises those encountering these wines for the first time. In reality, it is not a fault but one of their distinctive characteristics.
The Ancestral Method and ‘bottle-fermented’ wines have enjoyed a resurgence in international popularity under the French name Pétillant Naturel, often abbreviated to Pét-Nat.
The best-known example is probably the Col Fondo from Veneto, made from Glera grapes, which is considered the forerunner of modern Prosecco. But thefamily is a broad one and includes many refermented Lambruscos from Emilia and numerous artisanal wines scattered throughout Italia.
