Food

Bresaola's strategy against tariffs: what Lollobrigida's proposal consists of

Calderone (Assica): 'The minister's idea of producing bresaola with meat imported from the US and then re-exporting it to the US can stand'

by Giorgio Dell'Orefice

Con Bresaola Igp alla scoperta della Valtellina nascosta d'inverno

2' min read

2' min read

"It is a safe bet that many will think it is yet another boutade, but Minister Lollobrigida's proposal to try to produce bresaola with meat imported from the United States and then re-export it to the US may stand up. Davide Calderone, director general of Assica, the Italian association of cured meat and processed meat industries, is convinced of this.

The minister's proposal was made as part of the EU-US negotiations to try to limit the damage of US tariffs. Italy and Europe, in fact, are trying to meet the US request to reduce its trade deficit by increasing purchases of star and stripes products. With this in mind, a debate has developed in Italy on the raw materials on which Italy has a deficit (maize, soya and even durum wheat) and for which our country could increase its purchases from the US.

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Meat for Bresaola, therefore, can also fall into this group of products, but the discussion needs to be broadened.

Bresaola is an all-Italian speciality: a beef-based cured meat that is made from 90% imported meat. This is why Bresaola della Valtellina bears the PGI mark instead of the PDO mark because the former allows freedom of sourcing raw materials, whereas the PDO requires only local raw materials.

Bresaola della Valtellina is produced in excess of 80% with meat imported from Brazil because over the years, Valtellina producers have identified the meat of a breed of cattle bred in Brazil, the Zebu, as the best raw material to make their product.

'But nothing forbids,' adds Calderone, 'that it could be done with meat imported from the US. We have to study this hypothesis and work on it. We also want to do so because this opportunity could help us unblock the export of cured meats based on beef to the US, which has been blocked since the BSE years, the 'mad cow' crisis of 2001'.

A double value therefore for the hypothesis formulated by Minister Lollobrigida: on the one hand, producing bresaola with US meat could help Italy and Europe in the negotiations on US tariffs. And, on the other, to help Italy reopen the US market for beef-based cured meat exports.

In the background remains the unknown about American meat, which in many cases is treated with hormones. "I repeat," adds the Assica director, "first of all we need to verify whether that meat is suitable for producing Bresaola. Secondly, given that many people in Italy and Europe have doubts about the wholesomeness of meat treated with hormones, the way out has been proposed by Minister Lollobrigida himself: let's produce Bresaola with US meat to be re-exported to the United States. A hypothesis that would help us on our way to reopening the US market, moreover, because in order to send meat products to the US, we must use raw materials produced by slaughterhouses accredited by the US authorities. And at the moment neither Italian nor many Brazilian slaughterhouses are, while US slaughterhouses would be.

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