Buccellati, even in novelties the echo of the past: 'We don't follow trends'
The new earring collection takes up the motifs of four iconic collections, enhancing the preciousness of craftsmanship. The company aims to strengthen its ateliers
3' min read
3' min read
Among the most ancient creations in the history of jewellery (it seems that the first models, found in the region of Nubia, south of Egypt, date back to 2500 B.C.), hoop earrings also remain one of the most popular. And it is precisely hoop earrings that make up the new collection proposed by Buccellati, the historic Milanese brand founded in 1919 and which one hundred years later became part of the Richemont group. Buccellati has chosen to bring the motifs of four of its most emblematic collections - Rombi, Macri, Étoilée and Tulle - to these jewellery pieces, proposing them in variants that enhance gold, in yellow, white and pink versions, and diamonds. For the Rombi collection, the circle is brought to life through the line's iconic geometric motif, small diamond-embellished diamonds framed by a finely engraved and modelled fan-shaped edge. The Macri Classica earrings maintain the spirit of the collection, appreciated for the purity of its lines and the art of hand engraving. On the ribbed engraved surface, diamonds seem to punctuate the structure, enhanced by ornate motifs delicately framing the bezels. In the Étoilée earrings, the lightness and material effect given by the fine twisted wire returns, while the Tulle re-proposes the honeycomb work, among the brand's most elaborate.
We do not like to follow trends, we have our own style that has always remained 'timeless'," explains Maria Cristina Buccellati, communications director of the company founded by her grandfather Mario. "And it is precisely this style that distinguishes us that is appreciated by our customers, who have always recognised the value of our products, their workmanship and craftsmanship. Each of our creations is made by our craftsmen who have been working with us for many years and have completely internalised our workmanship and the techniques behind Buccellati products'.
In this inestimable human heritage the maison is investing with conviction, since it has announced the expansion of its manufactures, a strategy that within the next three years should bring the number of Buccellati artisans to around 500 and on which the ceo of the maison, Nicolas Luchsinger, dwelt in an interview published in Il Sole 24 Ore on 6 April.
Buccellati is moreover one of the fastest growing brands of the Richemont group, which closed its 2024-25 fiscal year at the end of March. The financial statements were published on 16 May, with very positive figures: net profit increased by almost 16.8% to 2.75 billion, sales rose by 4% to 21.4 billion, despite a drop in sales in the Asia-Pacific region.
Supporting Buccellati's development is also an increasingly close and emphasised link with the world of art: after the great exhibition "The Prince of Goldsmiths", dedicated to the history of Buccellati, which began its world tour from Venice in April 2024, the maison took part in the recent Milan Design Week with another exhibition, "Naturalia", dedicated to the celebration of nature that characterises its creations. Conceived as an immersive journey, also thanks to the multimedia set curated by Balich Wonder Studio together with Studio Mary Lennox, it led visitors along three worlds - the sea, the forest, the mountain -, populated by plants and animals (including a golden eagle, created for the occasion and enriching the Furry collection). And that's not all: Buccellati creations were also on display at the 'Flowers - Flora in contemporary art & culture' exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London (which closed on 5 May); in February, for the first time, the maison took part in Nomad (a niche art and collectible design fair known throughout the world) in St Moritz and last March, after an 11-year absence, it returned to Tefaf in Maastricht, the most important art fair in the world: 'In our premises we have an archive, created in the 1970s, where we keep plaster casts, historical registers that are more than one hundred years old together with a selection of historical jewellery that is owned either by the family or by the company,' continues Maria Cristina Buccellati. Art is one of our greatest inspirations, not only for jewellery, but also in silverware. In 2015, in fact, we launched the 'Art collection' designed by Andrea and Lucrezia Buccellati, where each creation was inspired by a work of art'.
