Fresh cheeses

Bufala, there's more than just mozzarella, burrata and ricotta are growing. And now it's the turn of stracciatella

According to Nielsenq data better results than the cow's milk sector. Fattorie Garofalo invests in a 100% buffalo milk stracciatella reference still absent in supermarkets

by Emiliano Sgambato

Napoli, un cono di mozzarella contro i dazi di Trump

5' min read

5' min read

If one speaks of buffalo, one immediately thinks of mozzarella. At least, obviously, in the food sector. The Campania PDO has conquered Italy and abroad, with exports approaching 40% and a total turnover of around 800 million. But buffalo milk has always also been used to make ricotta, whose PDO is experiencing a moment of great growth. As has been the case with burrata, which in recent years has grown in parallel with the success of that made from cow's milk. And now it is the turn of stracciatella, of which there are very few references, but which could accelerate after the debut of the one launched by Fattorie Garofalo, a leader in buffalo production.

Bufala better than cow?

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The time for introducing new products to the market does indeed seem propitious, with buffalo milk products doing better than their cow's milk cousins over the past year. In fact, according to a NielsenIq analysis, the sector comprising mozzarella, ricotta, burrata and stracciatella - produced with all types of milk - saw an overall increase of 3% in volume between November 2023 and November 2024, against a 1% drop in value and a 4% drop in average price.

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"In addition to a significant decrease in price, demand and promotions have negatively affected the performance of cow's milk products, resulting in a drop in value sales over the past year. The 100% buffalo milk versions, on the other hand," notes Alessandra Cuomo of NielsenIq, "showed growth of 7% in volume, 5% in value and an average price drop of 1%. The analysis by reference shows an even more marked difference: buffalo mozzarella grew by 6 per cent, outpacing the average 3 per cent for the mixed segment; buffalo burrata confirmed itself as one of the main drivers of growth, with +20 per cent, compared to a 1 per cent contraction in the overall category (buffalo and cow); buffalo ricotta (dop and non, ed.) marks +21 per cent compared to +3 per cent for the aggregate figure, which also includes sheep and cow (volume figures, ed.). The turnover is concentrated in mozzarella, which has now reached 90% penetration of Italian households. However, the double-digit growth of buffalo for all four categories shows a consumer focus on the whole perimeter. This is probably a reflection of the ever-increasing demand of Italian families for premium products and high service content.

However, it should be pointed out that the 'buffalo sector', considering only the sales of large-scale distribution monitored by NielsenIq, represents 17% of the total, i.e. an expenditure of about 270 million out of 1.6 billion. If we limit ourselves to buffalo products alone, however, mozzarella weighs in at over 94%, burrata 5% and ricotta 0.5%. Meanwhile, cow's stracciatella has boomed: it is now worth over 43 million in sales and in 2024 grew by 8% in value and 12% in volume.

The Fattorie Garofalo stracciatella

"The success of stracciatella is evident, so we felt it wasthe right time to invest in a new plant and focus strongly on a new 100% buffalo reference," says Alfio Schiatti, chief commercial officer of Fattorie Garofalo. "Consumers are increasingly asking for quality references that are tangibly different from the rest of the offer, and distributors will thus have another type of stracciatella available in addition to having only more brands. We have worked a lot on packaging with a linear and vertical impact that will allow us to stand out on the shelf. Our goal is to be the reference brand for buffalo and we believe we can repeat the success achieved by burrata, with the objective of reaching a 20% share of the total stracciatella market".

Currently, mozzarella accounts for 80-85% of the 85 million turnover of the dairy, which exports about 55% (to which must be added about 55 million from milk, fodder, energy production and direct sales), followed by burrata with 10-15% a, and then there is ricotta.

"The added value of this milk, in terms of nutritional quality and organoleptic characteristics, is recognised and appreciated by both Italian consumers and international markets. In our reality, this value is further amplified thanks to a fully integrated, circular and sustainable supply chain, which allows us to have full control over every production phase, from breeding to processing and distribution. It is this model that allows us to continuously guarantee the highest possible quality for each individual product,' Schiatti adds.

Buffala Ricotta Dop grows by 60%

The results of the ricotta di Bufala Dop also demonstrate the golden moment of buffalo milk: over 230 thousand tonnes were produced in 2024, almost 60% more than the previous year, and the first months of the year are continuing to double-digit, for a turnover of around two million euro.

'A result that has to be consolidated and that is mainly due to the work of the members who believe more and more in the PDO. Their number,' explains Sara Consalvo, president of the Ricotta di bufala campana PDO Consortium, 'has risen from seven nine years ago when the consortium was established to 26. As a result, the number of branded products has increased, which we are trying to enhance, especially in the North, thanks to investments made in quality production that allows us to maintain a shelf life of up to 15 days. During my term of office I will continue with the promotional action already begun in the past, also abroad, where a market already exists because we know that some members export, but there is a great deal of work to be done to increase awareness of the quality of the product on the part of distributors and end customers'.

Mozzarella and Pasta di Gragnano ready to eat

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Meanwhile, at TuttoFood, currently underway in Milan, the consortia for the protection of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, Ricotta di Bufala Campana DOP and Pasta di Gragnano IGP are relaunching their institutional alliance and presenting themselves united with a joint stand to field their proposals in the new frontier of ready-to-eat meals.Ready to eat, according to Circana, represents 3.5% of the foodservice market in Italy, with a value of 2.5 billion euros and a sector growth of 15.3% compared to 2017. Thus, the Consortia will propose a daily box with ready meals, but of high quality and designed with an anti-waste function. At lunchtime, the menu of the day will be revealed, which will be narrated on social media by a group of influencers. Ranging from the arancino alla Nerano, made with Gragnano Igp barley and a heart of Campania Buffalo Mozzarella Dop, to the tiramisù made with a Gragnano Igp lasagna wafer and a cream of Campania Buffalo Ricotta Dop. Space then goes to recycling recipes. Baked pasta? Well, you can turn it into a fried timbale of anellini di Gragnano Igp with peas and Bufala Affumicata Dop.

"We want to be a modern product, in step with the times,' comments Domenico Raimondo, President of the Consortium for the Protection of Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP. 'That is why at Tuttofood we intend to intercept new consumption trends and new consumers, demonstrating that even with a frenetic pace of life it is possible not to give up quality. It is also a message of social responsibility in a complex era, which forces us to come to terms on the one hand with expensive shopping trolleys and on the other with international scenarios of great uncertainty".

"Pasta di Gragnano Igp is a symbol of tradition, but it remains a product that is always up-to-date and contemporary - underlines Massimo Menna, president of the Consorzio di Tutela della Pasta di Gragnano IGP -. The alliance with Mozzarella and Ricotta di Bufala Campana PDO makes it possible to synergistically present the excellence of our products, which are accessible, sustainable and in line with the needs of a changing society. At Tuttofood we will emphasisethe versatility of pasta, which can also play a leading role in ready-to-eat, creative and anti-waste recipes, without ever renouncing its identity and link with the territory'.

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