From Dries Van Noten to Rick Owens a widespread need for kindness
The need to rediscover the aesthetic and political value of fragility also predominates in the collections of Issey Miyake and Yohij Yamamoto
2' min read
2' min read
The Paris fashion week continues under the banner of a shared purpose: to dismantle all hardness, rediscovering the aesthetic and political value of fragility.
The IM Men team continues to expand on one of the founding principles of Miyake designs: the challenge of making each garment from a single piece of fabric. What to the layman may appear as mere technicality actually produces garments with wonderfully fluid lines, whose geometric shapes reconfigure and redefine with each movement of the body, creating a constantly evolving dialogue with the wearer. This season, the ideal conversation with the work of ceramist Shoji Kamoda translates into an organic palette and patterns with a guttural rhythm. The collection is lyrical and abstract, concrete and radical, and powerfully updates Issey's language, highlighting its ancestral futurism.
Julian Klausner continues to convince as the creative heir of Dries Van Noten. He moves in the same vein, but has a sensibility of his own, harder at times, less eclectic, more inclined to explore a subtle ambiguity. He imagines a man in love, walking on the beach in the aftermath of a party, mixing dinner jacket and sarong, thick embroidery and pyjama stripes, exposed underwear and haggard formality. He is a carefree and gentle character, oblivious of what is to be considered masculine or feminine, who well captures the widespread need for kindness.
Mike Amiri, aka simply Amiri, is the Los Angeles herald of a swaggering but soft tailoring, all cosmetic colouring, complacent embroidery, wide lapels and flared trousers. The strain of this fashion is nostalgic, but the execution has an all-today, commendable looseness.
Yohji Yamamoto deconstructs and fluidifies as only he knows how, always and with unfailing verve, true to himself without rigidity or orthodoxy. Everything is light, black spreads broken by white, seditious slogans run through vaporous jackets and shirts, and poetry becomes punk, without vitriol but with much levity.
