In the Milan area

Camurati, the chic fan that graces the catwalks of Dior and Dolce&Gabbana

The Cassano d'Adda-based company is an old craft workshop and also works for film and theatre

by Carlotta Rocci

3' min read

3' min read

Old-fashioned flavour, noble style, but also very practical: in the hottest summer ever, the fan has become a must-have to be used outdoors, on the beach, on public transport, in poorly air-conditioned places. The classic object made of plastic or wood, now sponsored by artists and influencers, confirms its success, which began in 2024, bypassing other more technological, but less charming tools, such as mini fans. Alongside fashion, the fan has also gained a prominent role in marketing and corporate communication. Personalised fans have in fact become the most popular summer gadget for promotional campaigns, events and trade fairs.

Almost all the products on the market are sourced abroad, with a large proportion coming from China and Thailand. One of the main Italian importers and distributors is based in Rimini. In Cassano d'Adda, in the Milan area, there is perhaps the only workshop specialising in the production of fans, an activity that began in 1948 with Enrico Eugenio Camurati, and is now run by his daughter-in-law, Giuliana Dodi Camurati, and her children. Ventagli Camurati is a well-known brand in haute couture, film, theatre and medium and high-end shops.

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"We used to work more for the theatre, today many prefer to use less valuable fans and paint them," says the workshop owner. Collaboration with designers, on the other hand, has remained constant, particularly with certain brands such as Dior and Dolce & Gabbana'.

The paper or cloth fans found cheaply in souvenir shops and those hand-folded, ironed, starched and glued by Camurati are two universes that do not meet, and not only because of the price, which is decidedly higher than the handmade products. The fashion of the moment requires substantial production, with orders for hundreds of pieces at a time; the Milanese workshop produces around 1,800 fans a year, very few compared to industrial volumes. "I often have to turn down orders for hundreds of pieces to be delivered within 15 days," says Dodi Camurati. "We can sustain a rhythm of 200 pieces per week, no more, because a quality fan takes time, about an hour's work. The market is there, all the more so now that the heat is nagging, but Camurati's rhythms are those of an artisan workshop that has never wanted to betray its style and vocation. Fabrics have to be marked, folded, cut before they can be applied to the drum. Each product is meticulously checked before being delivered.

The company, which was opened before the Second World War, had converted to fans immediately after the conflict with an intuition of its founder who soon abandoned all other production for this article. A vast sample book and respect for the elegance of an accessory with a princely style: it has collaborated with opera and major film productions. There is Camurati's signature in the fans of director Luchino Visconti's The Leopard. Today, the maison also has an online shop run by the owner's only daughter.

For a while, under the leadership of Dodi Camurati, the workshop tried to import fans and materials from abroad, but in the end the maison chose 100% made in Italy. "In the end it was a double job, I had to sort through what was coming in, the prices were not so good and the competition was fierce," says the owner. Today, the fan shafts are commissioned by Camurati to Italian suppliers who work with wood or produce quality plastic, the silk arrives from Como and the other fabrics are always Italian or supplied by the big fashion houses who ask for made-to-measure products for fashion shows.

"A well-dressed lady must also wear a nice fan," says Dodi Camurati with the hasty manner of someone who prefers working more than chatting. "A good fan is not only beautiful and elevates the whole look with its elegance, but it is also functional and airs properly. Around, for little money, you find many products that break quickly or have layers that are too light to fan properly'. The prices depend on the materials: 30 euros for an average fan, a little more if the material is valuable like silk. The fact that fans are back in fashion has not moved Camurati's business much: 'Our clientele, I believe, is of a different target group.

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