Jewellery

Cartier: the splendour of the goldsmith's art goes on show in London

At the Victoria and Albert Museum an extensive retrospective devoted to the great jeweller can be visited until 16 November

29 July 2025

3' min read

From 12 April to 16 November 2025, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London opens its doors to one of the most eagerly awaited exhibitions of the year: a vast retrospective dedicated to Cartier, symbol par excellence of luxury, elegance and the finest craftsmanship. Entitled simply Cartier, the exhibition represents the most important tribute to the French maison in the United Kingdom in the last thirty years.

"The King's Jeweller and the King of Jewellers"

The exhibition illustrates the long friendship between the United Kingdom and the Maison Cartier using the epithet coined by King Edward VII for the Parisian jeweller: 'The King's Jeweller and the King of Jewellers'.

More than 350 pieces of jewellery, watches and objets d'art tell not only the story of a house of fine jewellery, but also that of a century of custom, taste and power. The exhibition curated by Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan unfolds through three main sections that explore creativity, sources of inspiration, the emergence of the house's distinctive style and relationships with key clients; technical innovation and craftsmanship focused on its workshops, access to important gems and innovations in the making process; and the construction of Cartier's image over time, how the house has maintained its relevance through sophisticated yet trend-driven marketing.

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Photogallery15 foto

A universe of style and innovation

Since its origins in Paris in 1847, Cartier has established itself as a trendsetter, capable of fusing classic elegance and avant-garde style. The exhibition retraces the milestones of this evolution: from the first tiaras in the Belle Époque style to the geometric jewellery of Art Deco, to bespoke pieces for iconic clients such as film stars and members of royal families.

One of the marvels on display is the famous 23.6-carat pink diamond Brooch given to Queen Elizabeth II, an extremely rare piece in terms of beauty and size. But the journey through the Cartier collection is also an immersion in technical mastery: "mysterious" watches with an almost magical function, modular necklaces, pivot bracelets that transform with the movement of the body.

Reclaiming power through jewellery

Every Cartier creation carries with it a story. Some jewels are not just precious objects, but symbols of political relationships, famous loves and tastes that have defined eras. Among the best-known pieces on display is the Scroll tiara, commissioned for the British aristocracy in 1902 and worn by Queen Elizabeth II during her coronation in 1953, and recently by Rihanna in a contemporary guise. Or the legendary Tank watch, beloved of figures such as Jackie Kennedy and Andy Warhol, whose shape recalls the rigid lines of World War I tanks, or María Félix's snake necklace: an extraordinary piece of jewellery from 1968 that represents the art of the goldsmith at its peak.

An immersive and sensorial exhibition

The exhibition design, by architect Asif Khan, does not merely display the jewellery, but builds an evocative world of light, sound and visual suggestions around it. The result is an immersive experience that transforms observation into contemplation, making the invisible visible: the work of master craftsmen, inspirations from distant cultures, the encounter between art and technique.

The Cartier exhibition at the V&A is not just a celebration of luxury, but a fascinating tale of creativity, history and beauty. It is an unmissable opportunity to discover how a brand has managed to remain relevant while going through aesthetic, social and technological revolutions. At a time when the authentic value of things is often overlooked, Cartier reminds us that beauty - when born of vision and craftsmanship - is destined to last.

Cartier, edited by Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, London, Victoria and Albert Museum