Events

Cartier's long history shines at the V&A Museum in London

On show until 16 November, more than 350 pieces of jewellery, some of which belonged to royalty and celebrities, recounting the creativity and entrepreneurship of the dynasty that founded and grew the maison

by Nicol Degli Innocenti

3' min read

3' min read

LONDON - In 1902, the Prince of Wales, later to become King Edward VII, described Cartier as "the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers", granting the first London shop the royal warrant, the coveted award for royal excellence.

A major exhibition just opened at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London tells the story of an unparalleled jewellery dynasty, from its origins to the present day, through more than 350 precious and extremely rare creations, from necklaces to tiaras, from vanity cases to watches and from rings to brooches.

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La storia di Cartier brilla al V&A Museum di Londra

Photogallery16 foto

"Exhibitions usually have subtitles, but in this case we agreed that the name is enough," said Tristram Hunt, director of the V&A, at the opening. Cartier immediately evokes elegance, innovation, art, imagination, creativity, great craftsmanship and beauty'.

Louis-François Cartier had founded the eponymous shop in 1847 in Paris, but it was his three grandsons Louis, Pierre and Jacques who transformed their grandfather's small family business into a world-famous and celebrated brand with offices in Paris, London and New York. Their customers included the royal houses of the time, aristocratic families from all over Europe, American billionaires, Indian maharajahs and then Hollywood stars.

Under the banner of Louis' motto 'always innovate, never imitate', the three brothers sought and found inspiration for their creations in 18th century France and Tsarist Russia, but also in China and Japan, Persia and ancient Egypt, the Islamic world and India.

"The Cartier brothers always had a global vision of their art," explains Helen Molesworth, curator of the exhibition. "They were masters of style who knew how to create fashions and were always in step with the times.

The brothers divided the tasks: Louis, in charge of the Paris office, had the idea of hiring designers to create exclusive works of art for Cartier. Next to the glittering display cases of jewellery are many original drawings, in particular by Frederick Mew, Queen Elizabeth II's favourite designer, which show in meticulous detail the artistry and creativity of the designers and the hard work behind each Cartier object.

Jacques, who opened the London office in 1902, was the gem expert and travelled the world to find the rarest and most precious, sapphires from Sri Lanka, emeralds from Colombia, rubies and jade from Burma, diamonds from India, Brazil and South Africa. Pierre founded the Fifth Avenue office in New York in 1909, cultivating relationships with American billionaires and wealthy heiresses.

Among the most extraordinary pieces of jewellery on display were Grace Kelly's engagement ring, which she wore in High Society, the last film she made before leaving the movies to become the Princess of Monaco; the panther jewellery set that had belonged to Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor; Jacqueline Kennedy's watch; and the diamond and ruby necklace given to Elizabeth Taylor in 1957 by her third husband, Mike Todd.

One section of the exhibition is dedicated to watches, which have become as famous as jewellery. Louis Cartier was one of the forerunners of wristwatch fashion and created the first one in 1904, combining aesthetics and technology. The last room, dulcis in fundo, is an extraordinary exhibition of 18 diadems that show all the variety and creativity of Cartier.

The admiration for Cartier shown by the future King Edward VII in 1902 was shared by his successors. Many of the jewels on display are part of the British royal collection and were on loan from King Charles III, such as the brooch commissioned by Elizabeth II in 1953 that has at its centre the extremely rare 23.6-carat pink Williamson diamond, the diamond-studded tiara worn several times by the Queen and a brooch worn by Princess Margaret at her sister's coronation.

Cartier, until 16 November 2025, Victoria & Albert Museum, London.

vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/cartier

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