Interview

Cocchini (ad Rinascente): 'Not only beauty: 56 million ready to rethink Milano Duomo'

In the second part of 2027 new spaces and a separate beauty hall in the premises of the historic Milan shop: "We also want to bring in new accessory and jewellery brands.

3' min read

3' min read

Fifty-six million euro investment, three thousand extra square metres of sales space that will reorganise the offer of Milano Duomo, the most important (and perhaps iconic) flagship store of the Rinascente group. Which will reopen with a "grand floor" and a beauty hall separated, in the spaces of the former Odeon theatre and cinema, between May 2027 and the end of the same year. Narrating all these projects is Pierluigi Cocchini, ceo of Rinascente since 2017.

Pierluigi Cocchini, ad Rinascente

The project is still in its infancy and will bring a series of novelties. Can you tell us about them?
"We are creating a district dedicated to beauty beyond beauty, which will for the first time be separate from the main Rinascente Duomo building: it will be entered from Via Santa Radegonda and, for this reason, we will also open a new entrance mirroring the main building. The cosmetics, which currently occupies about 1,200 square metres of sales space including the 300-metre Annex, will be moved entirely there, on an area of over 2,000 square metres divided over three floors. We will ask brands to do unique projects and we will also have an exhibition area which I believe will be suitable for events and product launches. Then there will be four treatment rooms each dedicated to a brand and one shared; an area dedicated to aesthetic medicine: we are looking for a serious partner. Then a food area, indoor and outdoor'.

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Rinascente Tritone, la nascita di un mall nel cuore di Roma

What will happen to the ground floor of Rinascente Duomo, which is currently dedicated to beauty brands?
"We will completely rethink the ground floor, which will be called "the grand floor" emphasising the grandeur of the space, and the mezzanine, which is currently occupied by the accessories of luxury brands. Our aim is also to expand the areas dedicated to certain brands or to bring luxury accessories and jewellery maisons that are currently missing to Rinascente. We are already in negotiations with some of them'.

The project is ambitious. How much is the investment?
"Approximately 36 million euro for the Odeon, including the investment of the brands in setting up their spaces, and 20 million for the main building.

An important bet at a time that is not good for the fashion and luxury goods sector. How did sales go for Rinascente in 2024?
"Overall, Rinascente hit a new sales record, exceeding one billion euro and up 2% on 2023. But some distinctions must be made: the flagship stores (Milan Duomo and Rome Tritone, ndr) that have a strongly luxury-oriented offer closed with flat or slightly negative sales compared to the year before. On the other hand, the shops that we call regional (Cagliari, Turin, Catania, Florence, Monza, Palermo, Rome Piazza Fiume) and which rely on a local clientele with premium or accessible luxury brands, closed with growth of +18-20 per cent. The best performance was in Cagliari'.

Il palazzo di Rinascente a Cagliari

So the Achilles' heel in this 2024 was the luxury brands?
"Luxury started to show its first problems at the beginning of 2024: entry prices soared and this was felt, especially in handbag purchases. However, the brands have realised this and are taking action. Our spaces, then, represent a point of approach for customers to the high-end more than the flagship stores in the Galleria or Monte Napoleone can. So they must be ready to present themselves with more accessible products'.

The problem was only the prices then?
"
To this was added the whirlwind of changes at the top, managerial and creative, which involved some important brands and led to a series of uncertainties in the collections as a consequence. But this is not the only issue: we lost the Chinese clientele, which represented an important slice for us. In part this lack has been compensated for by purchases from other nationalities, which are, however, less focused on luxury. It is quite a serious problem and I think it will continue next year'.

How have you reacted to these changes in the market?
"Our reaction has been on three axes: to continue our attitude as a media company by carrying out a series of communication operations and events that have partly covered the losses produced by luxury; to push the high-end brands to do activities to increase visibility and bring customers closer; to increase marketing activities focused on domestic customers. The latter can be said to have saved us: since Covid, our focus on them had already grown and will continue to grow'.

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