Crazy wine prices: here's what to buy so you don't have to take out a mortgage
Drinking well while spending the right amount used to be the rule in the Italian market: lately this is not always the case, but there are some so-called minor denominations that still offer excellent value for money
We have the good fortune to live in the country with the widest ampelographic variety in the world: in Italy, the rule is 'where you go, the vineyard you find'. Wine, here, has never been a luxury product: drinking well while spending the right amount has always been the rule of the market. In recent years, however, something has changed, especially for the more 'emblazoned' denominations such as Langhe, Montalcino, Bolgheri, Valpolicella. Here prices run fast and we risk that in a few decades the new generations will have to take out a mortgage to afford a Barolo, a Brunello or an Amarone, even in the basic versions. Or that they will no longer flock to wine, which is already happening in part. The good news is that all is not lost. Thanks in fact to the agronomic and oenological advances of the last thirty years, there are alternatives, and how! It is enough to have the curiosity to look beyond the usual addresses to areas that are a little less fashionable (but full of surprises).
If you are a Nebbiolo fan, know that 'beyond the Langhe there is more' (paraphrasing a 1990s catchphrase). In Alto Piemonte with appellations such as Lessona, Bramaterra and Boca you will find wines of great elegance, as well as in Valtellina, with Sassella, Grumello and Inferno. All at civilised prices, especially on the large reserves. Move quickly, however, because areas such as Gattinara are already experiencing a major repositioning, thanks to the arrival of big names from the Langa who have sniffed out the bargain.
Chapter Burgundy: prices now verge on those of a penthouse on the Spanish Steps. But don't be discouraged! For Chardonnays, go for appellations like Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Véran, Saint-Aubin or some labels from the Mâconnais. They cost half as much as the various Montrachets and sometimes give more satisfaction. For Pinot Noir, on the other hand, the alternative to the Côte de Nuits is to look to the Côte Chalonnaise - with Mercurey and Givry in the lead - or even to the Auxerrois de Chablis area, where red is also finally finding its place thanks to the warmer climate.
Sangiovese remains the king of Tuscany. In Montalcino it now plays in the Champions League of prices, but if you want to drink well without bleeding yourself dry, there are some excellent Rosso di Montalcino that deserve more attention, and they also have ageing potential that nobody talks about. After all, Brunello is not an everyday bottle. Or the reserves of Montepulciano, some Gran Selezione del Chianti Classico and the gems of Montecucco: interpretations with character, depth and decidedly more affordable.
