Fine jewellery

Damiani and the “master craft” of transforming a work of art into a piece of jewellery

Guido Grassi Damiani, chairman of the family business, talks about the inspiration behind the new collection unveiled in Como: “We’re growing, even faster than we’d anticipated.”

by Marta Casadei

 La collana ispirata alla Primavera di Sandro Botticelli

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

A necklace, Malìa, inspired by Caravaggio’s *Head of Medusa*, featuring rose gold tentacles illuminated by teardrop-shaped rubies. And then there is Florèa, a tribute to Botticelli’s Primavera, evoking the wreath of the goddess Flora: white gold daisies and small flowers in multicoloured sapphires dotting a lush green meadow, made of tiny emeralds. The parallel between jewellery and works of art is often natural, but in the case of ‘Arte Maestra’, the fine jewellery collection that Damiani presented last night at an event on Lake Como, it is a must: the pieces, unique and extremely precious, are inspired by eight masterpieces which include, in addition to those already mentioned, works by Hokusai, Kandinsky, Seon, Van Gogh, Monet and Klimt. A celebration of Italian savoir-faire and creativity from the company, founded in 1924 in Valenza Po and led by the three Grassi Damiani siblings (Giorgio, Guido and Silvia), has always placed at the heart of its business and its narrative.

How important is the fine jewellery segment – comprising unique pieces of unmistakable craftsmanship – to your business?
«
These are products of the very highest calibre that customers want to see in person, not least so they can ask specific questions. The high-end jewellery customer is very sophisticated, pays close attention to detail, and comes to Damiani because they are looking for Italian craftsmanship and design. It is a customer segment that is growing.”

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Who are the customers for these unique and precious pieces, and where do they come from?
«
They are often couples or women who choose pieces for themselves, entirely of their own accord. And then there are young consumers, especially from Asia and the Middle East. The impression is that this is a group of consumers who buy a piece for pleasure rather than as an investment, and therefore make a more informed choice when it comes to jewellery. Moreover, compared to other luxury goods, jewellery is passed down through the generations or can be dismantled and reimagined: this philosophy aligns with the more conscientious attitude of young people, who want to avoid waste».

Damiani, la visione degli artisti nella collezione “Arte Maestra”

Photogallery14 foto

 The Damiani Group’s 2025 financial year closed with revenues in excess of 400 million and outperformed the market. What were the driving factors?“We were aiming for higher growth, but we are satisfied. This year, however, we are already performing better than expected. These figures are the result of a long-term business development strategy: with passion and consistency, we are aiming to build a larger, healthier group that we can in turn pass on to our children. And this helps us stay on course and gives us the courage to invest even in times of crisis.”

 What sort of repercussions do you anticipate, given the situation in Iran and the Gulf?
«
As I said, the year has started well. I have a ‘privileged’ perspective on the Middle East because I live in Dubai, and I can say that, inevitably, there has been a negative impact, particularly on tourism. The end of the war, in terms of both timing and outcome, will certainly play a role in determining the direction of the luxury sector.”

Are there other markets helping to redress the balance in the Gulf?
«
Italia is performing well, with another year of growth. The same applies to Japan and Korea.”

According to Global Blue, by 2025 Chinese tourists will once again be buying jewellery in Italia and across Europe. What are your expectations regarding China?
China is not yet a major market for us; we are growing but without overdoing our investments because the region is going through a critical phase.”

The acquisition of Baume et Mercier is due to be finalised this summer. Is that correct? And are you interested in other deals, not just relating to brands but also manufacturers, as you have done in recent years?
«
The closing is confirmed. We are interested in working on several fronts; we believe it is important to accelerate growth: being small is no longer an advantage, but risks being dangerous. We have several ongoing projects, both in the jewellery and watch sectors – where we would like to target medium-sized brands – and with multi-brand distributors and manufacturers.”

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