Beauty

Dark spots and photoageing: what happens to the skin after the summer. New technologies

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4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

As summer draws to a close and our tan gradually fades, certain skin imperfections may become more noticeable. Blemishes, discolouration and variations in skin tone – which appeared less pronounced during the summer months – become more evident, along with a less even skin texture and a loss of radiance in the complexion. This phenomenon forms part of the broader concept of photoageing, that is, the range of skin changes associated with repeated exposure to solar radiation. Over time, photodamage can affect not only pigmentation but also the texture and evenness of the skin’s surface.

What happens to the skin when exposed to the sun

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“During the summer, the skin activates various defence mechanisms,” explains Dr Giovanni D’Alessandro, a cosmetic doctor practising in Milan and Conversano (Bari). “Exposure to the sun primarily stimulates the production of melanin, but this is not the only change. Keratin levels also rise, leading to a thickening of the epidermis, and the skin’s blood supply changes. All these factors affect the way light is absorbed and reflected.” This is also why a tanned face may initially appear more even-toned, whilst as the complexion gradually lightens, differences in pigmentation and uneven areas become more noticeable.

Diagnosis comes before treatment

Talking generically about ‘spots’ can be misleading. In fact, there may be different mechanisms underlying a change in colour, and identifying them correctly is the first step before any treatment. ‘It is essential to establish the nature of the change,’ emphasises D’Alessandro. “A pigmented patch, known as melasma, is darker and very different from a patch caused by thickening of the epidermis, known as hyperkeratosis, as well as those caused by increased blood flow, known as erythrosis. There are specific lasers for each of these types of discolouration, and only their skilful use leads to an improvement in the skin’s health.”

Macchie cutanee, le nuove tecnologie

Photogallery12 foto

Face, hands and décolleté 

The areas most exposed to sunlight do not all share the same anatomical characteristics. The face, décolleté and backs of the hands differ in terms of skin thickness, the presence of sebaceous glands and hair follicles, and the distribution of collagen and elastin. ‘These are variables that directly influence the choice of treatment parameters,’ explains the specialist. ‘The trend is therefore to tailor the treatment not only to the type of discolouration, but also to the anatomical area and the individual characteristics of the skin.’ Among the technologies used in aesthetic medicine to address these issues is Fraxel® Dual, a non-ablative fractional laser that treats microscopic sections of tissue whilst leaving the surrounding areas intact

Fraxel Dual, a laser with two wavelengths 

Fraxel® Dual uses two wavelengths, 1550 and 1927 nanometres, which allow it to target different depths. ‘The 1550 nm wavelength penetrates deeper into the dermis and is used when the aim is to stimulate deeper regenerative processes,’ explains D’Alessandro. “The 1927 nm wavelength, on the other hand, acts more superficially and is used to treat pigmentary changes associated with photoageing. The ability to adjust depth and parameters therefore allows us to develop different treatment protocols based on the clinical presentation.”

How fractional laser treatment works

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The term ‘fractional’ describes the way in which energy is distributed within the tissue. The laser does not treat the entire surface uniformly, but creates microscopic thermal columns, interspersed with areas not affected by the beam. The principle is to produce a controlled stimulus that activates the body’s natural repair processes. ‘It’s like aerating a lawn,’ explains the expert. ‘The epidermis is the outermost layer, whilst the dermis is the deeper layer. The microchannels created by the laser promote a regenerative response, and the heat stimulates the fibroblasts, which are involved in the production of collagen and elastin.”

Results take time

The effects of a fractional treatment do not end with the single session. Cell renewal and dermal remodelling continue over the following weeks, in line with the tissue’s natural biological processes. ‘Damaged cells are gradually replaced, but the synthesis of new collagen takes time,’ concludes D’Alessandro. ‘Four to six sessions at intervals of around fifteen days are recommended, but the treatment plan must be determined by the doctor.’

Home treatments

Prevention always plays a key role, and the first step is to prevent the formation of dark spots using specially formulated skincare products. Among the new products, we would like to highlight: the new RoC Even Tone range, featuring a day and night face cream formulated with tranexamic acid and niacinamide, which targets dark spots to even out the complexion, and an eye cream designed to reduce discolouration and dark circles. The BioNike Cosmeceutical range brings together three treatments to tackle the problem on multiple fronts: TXA Clar, a depigmenting concentrate containing 1.9% tranexamic acid; Poly GSH Cream, a bio-revitalising anti-ageing cream with SPF 30; and Glyco Peel, an exfoliant containing 20 per cent glycolic acid. Combining the effectiveness of a serum with the comfort of a cream, Collistar’s Pure Active Ingredients: Salicylic Acid Cream Drops. The formula contains controlled-release salicylic acid to gently exfoliate and unclog pores, enhanced by 1 billion plant-derived exosomes per ml. Pure Italia offers the Skin Blemishes Combo. A regimen comprising three treatments: 3.8% Glycolic Acid Face and Body Serum to exfoliate, Perfection Anti-Dark Spot Serum to tackle discolouration, and Liquorice Exosome Anti-Dark Spot Face Cream for anti-dark spot action. Eucerin, on the other hand, has focused on the body with its Anti-Pigment Anti-Dark Spot Body Cream. At the heart of the formula is Thiamidol®, which helps reduce dark spots and regulate melanin production, along with Dexpanthenol for exfoliation, whilst Hyaluronic Acid keeps the skin hydrated.

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