Interview

De Matteis: 'For Kiton, luxury is quality and attention. We invest in new shops and manufacturing"

A new boutique in Via Monte Napoleone, a factory to produce the women's line, events, travel retail and brand extensions: the ceo of the sartorial brand, founded in 1968, reveals plans for 2026

by Chiara Beghelli

Un look della collezione uomo Kiton per l’AI 26-27 che sarà presentato sabato 17 gennaio a Milano

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

The optimism stems first of all from Pitti Uomo, the fair that closes today in Florence: "The turnout of the first two days exceeded expectations," explains Antonio De Matteis, ceo Kiton and since 2023 also president of Pitti Immagine: "From the morning of the first day, the pavilions were full, a wonderful sign. The same optimism is fuelled by the figures of Kiton, the company from Arzano (Naples) founded in 1968 by his uncle Ciro Paone and of which he is CEO: "We will close at around 230 million, at +2.5/3%, a trend that makes us look with confidence at the plans for this new year".

Antonio De Matteis, ceo Kiton

What will they be?
"The most important is certainly the opening of our boutique in Via Monte Napoleone in Milan, in September, 250 square metres in a very good location. Architect Michele Bönan, who is also overseeing the remake of our Palazzo Kiton in New York, scheduled to open in 2027, will take care of it. Also in the United States, which is our first market, we will open in September in Miami's Design District

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Triennale Milano e Kiton, mostra-laboratorio sull'alta formazione

In the US, the bankruptcy of Saks is worrying many...
"
In 2025 we were actually driven by retail, up 10%, while the wholesale suffered. But as a channel it remains an indispensable showcase, for comparison and research."

Are you exploring other channels?"
"
In March and April we will inaugurate our presence in travel retail with a boutique in Hong Kong airport. This is also a category we are following closely

La manifattura di Arzano (Napoli): Kiton ha cinque siti produttivi in Italia, con circa 800 dipendenti, e oltre la metà sono artigiani

In 2025 you made your debut in furniture with Cassina and in boating with a Strider 13 Sacs customised KNT, your contemporary collection. Could Kiton explore other lifestyle segments?"
"
We want to seize all opportunities consistent with our way of thinking, our quality and our style. The Strider was launched together with our pop-up on the Porto Cervo waterfront, also as a means of accompanying customers to discover the Costa Smeralda. Today, being close to the end consumer is crucial, only those who succeed grow

Initially reserving it for the US market, you have also launched a jewellery collection, a category that is doing very well.
"
We certainly want to grow it and from March we will also make it available in other markets. We are planning many events reserved for our top clients in single-brand boutiques and prestigious hotels".

Passaggio di competenze nella Scuola di Alta Sartoria Kiton, fondata da Ciro Paone nel 2000

The heart of your production, however, is still the Arzano factory, where 25 years ago you also opened the Scuola di Alta Sartoria.
"
It was the best investment we could have made. There is too much talk about training and still too little of it. I invite all entrepreneurs to open up training spaces. Thanks to the school, today the average age of our craftsmen is 36 and over time we have absorbed 80% of the students. The others work in local companies or have opened their own. A 100% placement rate is by no means taken for granted in an area like ours. But young people must be paid and rewarded: this is the only way to nurture their passion for work

You are also investing in the women's collection, designed by your cousin Maria Giovanna Paone, who is the president of the company.
"Today it generates more than 20% of turnover. We have bought a 15 thousand square metre piece of land right in front of our headquarters in Arzano, where we will build a factory dedicated exclusively to the women's collection. And in Milan we will reserve our current shop in Via Sant'Andrea for women's wear

Un look della collezione Kiton donna AI 25-26

In 2026 you will celebrate your first 40 years at Kiton. How has the company and the fashion industry in general changed since then?
"At the time we only made outerwear, then everything changed, including the markets: in 1986 half of the turnover came from Germany, today it is a very difficult area. Distribution has also changed: as I said, wholesale is in difficulty, but I'm sure it won't disappear. Maybe it will evolve in the sense of specialty stores, spaces where the relationship with the customers is very careful. The basis of everything is to understand what the end customer wants. Surely they want service, assortment, quality. In recent years, unfortunately, luxury has lost itself, forcing customers to stand in long queues outside the shops, for example. This will never happen with us. My uncle, Ciro Paone, used to say that 'the customer forgets the price and remembers the quality'. The secret to doing well is all here'.

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