The Bain-Ebay study

Digital Passport pushes the second hand: doubling the value of the product in its life cycle

by Marta Casadei

3' min read

3' min read

The digital passport could double the value in the lifecycle of fashion products, with consumers benefiting the most, 'cashing in' the equivalent of 65% of the earnings.

This is the main evidence of the new report that Bain & Company realised with eBay analysing the effects that the European regulation could have on the value of products, especially in resale. The Digital Product Passport (DPP) is one of the obligations introduced by the Ecodesign Regulation (Espr) that came into force last year, the effects of which will unfold in a concrete way as of 2027 and will enable consumers, companies and regulators to track and evaluate products throughout their life cycle. According to the study, DPP will double the value of the product throughout its life cycle with the consumer collecting the most significant share (65%) of the gains. The remainder (35%) will be collected by brands through, for example, maintenance and repair services.

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"We did this study to try to understand how something that is born out of a need for compliance actually has the potential to create value. The DPP, in particular, will be a driver for the second hand market," explains Matteo Capellini, partner at Bain&Company among the authors of the study.

According to Capellini, however, 'brands have not yet realised the business opportunity and consumers will be the real "winners"'. Many brands - around 90 per cent of those surveyed by Bain - currently see DPPs primarily as a regulatory burden and not as a strategic investment that can generate ongoing revenues, promote sustainability and strengthen consumer relations. "Companies are approaching the process of adopting this tool from an emergency perspective, in consultation with their legal and sustainability teams. They are missing an important opportunity for value creation: when all apparel products have a digital passport, one can imagine that some of the barriers that still limit access to the second-hand market - such as material information or a certificate of authenticity - will be automatically knocked down".

According to Capellini, 'second hand could bring brands a range of new consumers, for example those who cannot afford full-price products, but also bring them closer to their decarbonisation goals'.

Echoing him is Alexis Hoopes, vp Global Fashion at Ebay: 'Digital passports are key to supporting the future of circularity in fashion. As a global marketplace at the forefront of resale, we are understanding how better product data can drive smarter shopping, sales accountability and platform reliability."

European green standards under revision

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The Ecodesign regulation is one of the few measures of the Green Deal package that, to date, has not been revised or slowed down as a result of the new European strategy that favours industrial competitiveness and that, through the Omnibus packages, has led to a revision of the Csrd (on green reporting) and Csddd (on due diligence in the supply chain) directives. On the other hand, the application of the Deforestation Regulation (Eudr) that would "hit" the leather supply chain has already been postponed by one year. In the last few days, then, in Brussels the discussion, which has now reached the trialogue of institutions, on the Green Claims directive designed to combat greenwashing has been blocked. "Despite these events, in line with the change of narrative that has taken place at European level, steps forward are still being taken: companies, especially large ones, have invested heavily in the transition," Capellini continues, "and the path is in a sense marked out. Perhaps things are communicated less at the moment, but they are done nonetheless'.

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