Discovering Cagliari with Max Sirena, thinking about the America's Cup
With the sea in his heart but, for once, his feet on dry land. The ceo of Luna Rossa talks about his city amidst seafood restaurants, strolling pizzas and the San Benedetto market, where he stocks up on bottarga and myrtle.
I start with a paradox: although I spend 365 days a year at sea between yachts and regattas, I sold my sailboat because I couldn't find the time for a family cruise on a stretch of water that wasn't a race course. Managing an America's Cup team like Luna Rossa is an all-encompassing commitment. Fortunately, since 2014 I have been living in Cagliari, a city where it is always possible to carve out moments in contact with nature, discovering a hinterland that has nothing to envy from its sea.
The extraordinary thing is that you can enjoy the beauty of Sardinia while staying in the city, where the quality of life is high, especially if you have a family. I like to explore the island on my own, on an enduro motorbike - perhaps between May and July, surrounded by the scents of myrtle and broom - but it only takes a few minutes on foot through the woods and dirt paths to find yourself in front of breathtaking views. If I had to recommend an itinerary for a weekend, I would start, on a Friday, from one of my favourite places: the Sella del Diavolo. It can be reached on foot, by a route that is beautiful in itself. And when you get to the top, an incredible view opens up before you: on one side the endless sea, on the other the city and the towers of Sant'Elia. Then you can join friends at the Palmette for a sunset aperitif on the Poetto beach.
For dinner, you are spoilt for choice. I like to cook a lot, but if I go out, I go for a sure thing: one of my favourite places is Luigi Pomata, with a revisited Carlofortina cuisine. I always go for linguine alla Nìcolo (with an accent on the i) with tuna, capers, olives, pecorino cheese and lemon zest. For a classic pizza I would go for Maiori, first place in Sardinia at the Pizza Awards 2025 and also winner for Best Cocktail List in Italia.
But I have a soft spot for La Pizzetta d'Oro, which since 1972 has been making the tastiest wallet-size, walk-in pizza in existence. On Saturday mornings I would go to the San Benedetto market to buy tuna, myrtle, botargo and other specialities, then a trip to the Monte Urpinu Park with its small lakes and lots of animals. From there it is only a few minutes to the Molentargius Natural Park, where you walk among the salt pans and pink flamingos. An extraordinary spectacle of which I never tire. For lunch, I move to the Marina area, to the Stella Marina di Montecristo restaurant, a place that is an identity of Cagliari and the first place where I ate. I remember being struck by a table set with a pen and glasses resting next to the plate. It remained empty for the entire evening. The same thing happened a few weeks later. When I was about to ask for an explanation, Gigi Riva came in and, quite naturally, sat down at the place in front of the glasses: it was 'his' table.
Even today, there is a corner entirely dedicated to the great champion, who adored Giacomo's cuisine: traditional seafood dishes, with a set menu that varies according to the catch of the day. To dispose of the ever-present myrtle at the end of the meal, there is nothing better than to climb the steep slopes of the old town centre through the narrow streets full of life, bars, shops selling typical products and jewellers specialising in filigree and red coral work, including Gioielleria Rolla, one of the oldest in town. As for handicrafts, my wife is very fond of Galinanoa, with a selection of objects ranging from Terrapintada ceramics to antique Sardinian carpets, jewellery, Utzeri's rush baskets or the artistic creations of Is Fem mineddas. For an aperitif, if like me you love Gin Tonic, I recommend Guzmán Gallery, which is also an excellent Lebanese restaurant. For dinner, on the other hand, it is worth moving a little outside the city to Terrazze di Calamosca, a restaurant with a view overlooking the entire gulf.
