Tailor-made trips

Discovering Cape Town, wild swimming and rare handicrafts

Exploring the beauty of a place with the help of an insider: Hanneli Rupert, Vice-President of the Michelangelo Foundation, tells how to experience her city at nature's pace.

by Caterina Maconi

Un ritratto di Hanneli Rupert, vicepresidente della Michelangelo Foundation, che cura la kermesse veneziana Homo Faber.

4' min read

4' min read

When I am in Cape Town, my day starts early. The ocean and Table Mountain that frame and dominate the city have a magnetic power over my routine. As soon as I get up, I swim in Camps Bay's Tidal Pools, saltwater pools carved out of the sea, where I can relax and play sports safely. Then, I drop by for a coffee at Okja, or at Strangers Club, which also offers a fine selection of locally inspired eco chic clothes. I like the cosmopolitan character of this metropolis: 11 languages are spoken here and different international communities coexist, but it is possible to experience an intimate dimension and appreciate a lively culinary offer. At the weekend, I go to the Oranjezicht Farmers Market in the mornings, where I shop for fresh food and vegetables, and discover interesting handicrafts. The range of venues is varied: new ones open all the time, but my map shows mostly historical addresses. For a quick lunch I point to Hemelhuijs, for the best salads.

Gli interni dell’hotel Ellerman House.

Fish is unmissable and always fresh: you can eat it at La Perla, an institution since the 1960s, while other names for special dinners are Between Us and La Colombe, which with its six restaurants is a reference point for fine dining throughout South Africa: the chefs and staff are taken on a visit to a different country every year to get to know its influences and ingredients, which they then collect in their menus. For a more casual evening there is Il Leone, Italian, or Mano's, with Mediterranean influences.

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“Inkomo yeKoyi” (2024), di Zizipho Poswa, uno degli artigiani presenti nell’edizione in corso della manifestazione.

My house is close to the ocean and stopping to watch it is a way of recharging myself. To enjoy the sunset, I like to open a bottle of wine at Bakoven Beach, or climb the Lion's Head, the perfect place to get a 360-degree view of the area: two classic destinations in Cape Town, especially in summer. In winter, on the other hand, you can have a drink at the Bascule Bar, at the V&A Waterfront, while watching the yachts.

The art scene is another plus of this city, and in fact an ideal time to visit is during the Cape Town Art Fair (next edition, 21-23 February 2025, ndr), which allows you to discover the latest galleries: they exhibit mainly contemporary artists and young emerging African artists. I am also supporting the local scene: in my boutique Merchants on Long, a concept store I opened in 2010, I host collections of clothes and accessories made by artisans and designers from all over the continent. You can find brands like Dye Lab, Frances VH Mohair, Lené Ehlers for the

Una vista della Lion’s Head.

ceramics, AAKS for bags, GuguByGugu.

Other local artisans that I love, excellent in ceramics, are Zizipho Poswa, the Madoda brothers and Siyabonga Fani, as well as Porky Hefer for his installations: they are all participating in this edition of Homo Faber, currently taking place in Venice, curated by the Michelangelo Foundation, of which I am vice-president. To discover African art, the Zeitz MOCAA is a must, as is the collection of the Ellerman House, a boutique hotel with a unique selection of contemporary works that take visitors on a journey through the country's cultural history. Among the hotels, I also suggest The Winchester, on the promenade. It is one of the best known streets, perfect for a stroll or for exercising with a view of the ocean: I sometimes run along it in the morning, it is a burst of energy.

Una stanza all’ultima edizione della Cape Town Art Fair.

My approach to the city is all about physical activity and nature: a short drive takes you to Table Mountain, which is criss-crossed by more than 300 trails. One of my favourites is the Kasteelspoort, with views of Camps Bay and Lion's Head, but for more complex treks, it's best to rely on Rodger Bowren or Escape+Explore, who design private, tailor-made adventures. Not only hiking and water sports: in Cape Town, golfers can play on picturesque courses, such as those at the Royal Cape Golf Club and the Pearl Valley Club, while botany enthusiasts can enjoy the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden. The city is small, everything can be reached quickly and, within a few minutes' drive, the landscape changes completely.

“The New Negro Escapist Social and Athletic Club (Thurgood)” 2008, di Rashid Johnson, esposto allo Zeitz MOCAA.

I recommend a day out in Stellenbosch, the place where I grew up: after a stop at my family's museum, the Rupert Museum, where a collection of African art from 1940 to 2000 is on display, lunch at The Fat Butcher for delicious meat. A wine tasting is inevitable at DeMorgenzon, where you can sample local wines, and then explore the statues in the indigenous Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden. Dinner is at Rust en Vrede, a restaurant on the well-known wine estate of the same name: reserve a table in the garden to taste the best meat accompanied by wines that have made the area's terroirs world-famous. In the region, barbecue has a great tradition.

I like to renew it for Sunday lunch: meat, vegetables, fish and a South African wine. My favourite is Optima, a red wine produced in the Anthonij Rupert Wine cellars. As a wild swimming enthusiast, the last thing I do before leaving Cape Town is go for a swim. For an exceptional freediving experience, you can contact Hanli Prinsloo: she organises tours all over the world, but is based in the city, and knows these waters inside out.

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