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Discovering Copenhagen: small museums, flower shops and gourmet delights

A madeleine with pink icing and Stenbiderrogn, the local caviar. For jewellery designer Sophie Bille Brahe, the city is to be discovered in the nuances of the painter Hammershøi and the verses of Inger Christensen.

by Lisa Corva

Un ritratto di Sophie Bille Brahe nel suo showroom di New York. ©Victoria Hely-Hutchinson

4' min read

4' min read

Copenhagen for me is its light: grey blue. The blue of the water, of the harbour, of the sea: although my showroom is in the city centre, I live next to the beach. All these elements inspire me and have also inspired the piece of jewellery I have designed and wear all the time, the Grand Ensemble Ocean Ring, a wave of diamonds sloping from large to small, the line where the sea and the sky meet and merge. Like the twilight, the moment when day gives way to night. Or that instant when you are about to fall asleep: a mysterious, elusive passage.

L’anello Grand Ensemble Ocean di Brahe (12.630 €).

The grey blue of Copenhagen is also what I find in the paintings of my favourite Danish painter, Vilhelm Hammershoi, to be discovered at The David Collection museum, which also houses a large collection of Islamic art. If I had to recommend a book to understand the city, I would say a volume with Hammershøi's paintings, silent interiors from the late 19th century. And a small collection of poems by Inger Christensen, a woman who came close to the Nobel Prize several times: The Valley of Butterflies (in Italy published by Donzelli, ndr). Every time I reread it, it moves me to tears.

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“Interno della chiesa di Santo Stefano Rotondo a Roma” (1902), di Vilhelm Hammershoi in mostra a Palazzo Roverella di Rovigo fino al 29/6. © Kunstmuseum Brandts

Another museum not to be missed in the city is the one dedicated to Thorvaldsen, the neoclassical sculptor who lived in Italy for a long time, and who was very close to my family, often a guest in our castles: one of our ancestors was a well-known 16th-century astronomer, Tycho Brahe. Now the castles are gone, little is left of the family's precious things, and the sculpted portraits of our ancestors are in the museum. But at home there is still an ancient Chinese cabinet made of dozens of drawers: I was allowed to open one every Sunday, together with my father, and take out what was inside. An incredible Wunderkammer.

Una sala del Thorvaldsens Museum. ©Thorvaldsens Museum

One day I found a diamond ring that no one knew was still there. I grew up with a love for Thorvaldsen's statues and chose two of his lions for my newly opened showroom on Madison Avenue in New York. I wanted to recreate what for me is an interior of the North: I juxtaposed his sculptures with design pieces I grew up with, like Poul Henningsen's PH Lamps . To America I brought my Letter collection, rings and necklaces with the letters of the alphabet. I started with the S of my name, finished in diamonds. All the initials are in my handwriting, I love writing by hand and I remember when the mother of one of my first friends told me: you will be really great when you have found your signature, your way of writing your name. That's what I try to teach my children too.

I vasi Foldevase di TAGE ANDERSEN (190 €piccolo, 287 € grande). ©Pernille Hoffmann

Another thing I love about Copenhagen are the flower shops, especially Tage Andersen's, a true artist. In my atelier there are fresh bouquets every week and that's why I designed some Murano vases. I have been on the Venetian island for a long time, experimenting with master glassmakers. I like the pearly, opalescent light we got for vases and candle holders.

L’atelier di CECILIE BAHNSEN.

Pearly, not by chance: my jewellery is made of gold and diamonds, but also pearls. My mother gave me her necklace when my son was born, and that's when I thought: how can I wear these beautiful pearls in a contemporary way? I undid it and tried to reinvent it. This is how I wear my jewellery, in the simplest way possible, with jeans and a T-shirt: femininity with a twist. The same style as Cecilie Bahnsen, the Danish designer who is a great friend of mine: we met as girls at the Royal College of Art in London. I love her transparent skirt woven with sequins, which I have in both black and white, and which I wear with a jumper or t-shirt. And her trainers, with the unmistakable appliqué flowers. True luxury for me is this: to feel good in your body, in what you wear. I feel good in her clothes.

I carciofi con salsa tahina serviti all’Apollo Bar.

Food is also very important in my family. My brother Frederik is a chef. I often go to his bistros, a volcano of energy and culinary invention: Apollo Bar, inside the Kunsthal Charlottenborg art gallery; the Kafeteria inside SMK, the National Gallery of Denmark; his three cafés, Atelier September. I admire its simplicity, its reducing food to its essentials. I add Popl, where to eat the signature burgers of Noma's chefs. And above all, my favourite patisserie, La Glace, opened in 1870 and still almost unchanged, where my grandmother used to take me as a child. I always order the same dessert: Prinsesse Thyra, a round pastry covered with a pink icing.

One regret? Not being able to taste Stenbiderrogn, a kind of Danish caviar, the eggs of a fish that is now very rare, this year because I could not find it anywhere. It is usually eaten in January and is one of the reasons why I love winter. The blue-grey light, which is that of the sky and the reflections of the buildings, is there, always.

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