Discovering Muscat, amidst the colours of the souk and the world's most precious perfume

Muscat is a metropolis that can make any traveller feel at home, because a sense of welcome is part of Omani DNA. I start the day with a walk on the beach and a coffee by the sea. The city is long and narrow, it might seem small: it is embraced behind by high mountains and pervaded in the older area by the honey-coloured architecture of the Portuguese era, while the border is the coastline. Many describe it, however, as the white city because of its palaces, some majestic - such as the residence of Sultan Qaboos, the mosque, the Royal Opera House and the national museum - others contemporary with colourful interiors. I really love the Bait Al Zubair museum, because of its intimate atmosphere, the preciousness of the objects and the extreme care taken in the layouts. I was born nearby, in Mutrah, along the corniche, a stone's throw from the sūq: a multicoloured chaos, full of flavours, sounds, scents, curiosity, a constant stimulus.

La caesar salad in versione omanita del ristorante Bait Al Luban. A destra profumo Reflection Man, AMOUAGE (365 €, 100 ml).

I often portray him in my Alleys, the canvases I also exhibited in Venice, in the last Biennale. My gallery is located in a defiladed area, the former industrial hub of Al Rusayl, which is being reborn little by little thanks to new projects. It is the place I have always dreamt of, where I have collected 30 years of work, since I have been painting since I was 8 years old: a large open space with objects, books and suggestions and upstairs, on the first floor, the library and the café. This is how we Omani people like it, growing in respect of tradition, but remaining local. This is how it has been for Muscat: the city has resisted global standardisation by defending its identity. While other countries on the Arabian Peninsula and in the Gulf have chosen vertical development, here we cultivate the heart, traditions and soul of the neighbourhoods. In this period, the art world is in great ferment: in addition to museums, many hotels are opening small galleries inside them, supporting the work of emerging young artists. For example, the Mandarin Oriental, opened just over a year ago in Al-Qurum. On Al Ghubra, I also really like The Chedi Muscat, now an institution in the city, for its minimalist aesthetics and welcoming, relaxed atmosphere.

Una via ferrata tra i canyon neri di Jebel Akhdar. (COURTESY Alila Jabal Akhdar)

Outside Muscat, a trip to the mountains is a must: among the black canyons of Jebel Akhdar, one cannot miss Alila. It means surprise and is a boutique hotel for reconnecting with nature. From here you reach Misfat Al Abriyeen, a village where you can breathe in an out-of-time atmosphere. In Nizwa, the ancient capital and gateway to this high-altitude mountain kingdom, the Accross Ages museum has recently opened, a wonderful celebration of our national history.

La grande moschea del sultano Qaboos.

My favourite spot, however, hotels and museums aside, takes us back to the coast: I choose the island of Masirah for its peace, or the beaches of Sharqiyah where the sand dunes meet the waves. Here I recharge and find energy: I believe that in these landscapes lies the true essence of Oman, the power of its chromatic and climatic contrasts, the opposites embraced and contiguous, peaks and sea, desert and water. Omani cuisine, too, is a journey of continuous discovery: there are a few addresses in the city not to be missed. It takes patience to find a table at Bait Al Luban, but the experience is worth the wait. Enjoy the modern caravanserai atmosphere of Rozna, while for a bite of modernity, one of my favourite cafes is Al Mohandis. To take home a little bit of Oman, I recommend the modern version of the sūq: the Mall of Oman is the contemporary answer to the ancient markets. In my country, one of the most precious perfumes in the world is distilled: the perfumery house Amouage has never interrupted the fil rouge with the cultivation of roses still treated with the traditional method, following the seasons, among the mountains, extracting the essence of the petals inside ancient cellars dug in the stone. Speaking of traditions, the boutres, the wooden boats that perpetuate centuries-old maritime savoir-faire and are a cultural attraction, managed with government support to preserve the heritage, are also worth a visit. They are located about 4 kilometres from the city, in a picturesque lagoon.