Discovering Delhi: gardens, markets, shawls and the world's best cocktails
A tour of the Lodi Gardens, lunch at the Malcha Marg Market, shopping in the craft shops: Aditi Chand, the entrepreneur who has revitalised the sari in a deluxe key, guides us through the heart of her city.
4' min read
4' min read
I have always led a nomadic existence. My father was in the Armed Forces and we lived in different cities in India. Then, as an adult, I lived in the UK, France and Singapore. Throughout all this time, Delhi has always been a safe haven: I grew up there as a child, spent my university years there. It is the place I have never stopped returning to, seeing it change and, in some respects, remain the same.
The most extraordinary thing about this city is that it can contain the new and the past. One place that I think sums up this concept perfectly is the Sunder Nursery, a delightful space created by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, which has restored the ruined monuments to their former glory by landscaping the gardens. It is very busy and I recommend going there early in the morning. A rule that also applies to other Delhi wonders: the Lodi Gardens, a public garden dotted with ruins, and the beautiful Humayun's Tomb.
When I'm in town, I live in the residential neighbourhood of Greater Kailash, famous for its markets. If I didn't have my own place, I would sleep at the Imperial, which mixes Art Deco with Victorian and Edwin Lutyens style: it oozes old-world charm, it's beautiful. A good alternative is the Taj Mahal, known as the Taj Mansingh.
Delhi is the gastronomic capital of India. It is usually associated with the rich north Indian cuisine, such as Awadhi, which incorporates Mughal influences, including sauces and butter chicken. But the city offers much more, as it is home to many communities that have brought their own flavours here. The restaurant recommended by all, to be on the safe side, is Indian Accent, inside the Lodhi hotel, while another classic, for those who love northern cuisine, is Bukhara, inside the Itc Maurya. Personally, I choose Le Cirque at the Leela Palace, where the food is fantastic.
Leaving aside the five-star hotels, I have a soft spot for Cafe Lota at the National Crafts Museum. They have several regional Indian dishes on the menu and there is the added bonus of adding to the pleasure of food the opportunity to visit the museum's galleries. Among the independent venues, I like Café Dali and the tiny Plats, where the food never disappoints. For those who like Indian seafood cuisine, a classic is Sana-Di-Ge at Malcha Marg Market, one of my favourite markets. It is a bit of a sleepy place, without the energy of the bustling Khan Market, but some new openings are making it more interesting, like Fig at Malcha, a beautiful coffee shop/bistro: their coffee is worth the drive from the South Delhi neighbourhood where I live. In the same market is Ogaan, with a wide selection of Indian designer brands.
