Dolce&Gabbana: Sicilian extravagance that goes beyond tradition

Following greenwashing and pinkwashing – terms given to rather deceptive shortcuts used to boast about environmental sustainability, gender equality or inclusivity – there has been talk for some time now of craftwashing, a phenomenon perhaps even more odious than the first two. There are those who present themselves as artisanal, both in their stylistic approach and in practice, but are anything but. Not everything that appears to be handmade, or the product of human creativity, actually is, and according to many, the much-vaunted ‘artisanal’ claim serves ‘only’ to justify an exorbitant final price.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, their brand and their company can never be accused of ‘craft washing’. Their approach is deeply human and respectful of their respective passions, personalities and origins, and the creation of their garments is increasingly artisanal – perhaps thanks to a sort of osmosis with the highest level of craftsmanship applied to collections of one-off pieces in haute couture and haute couture tailoring. In the case of Dolce&Gabbana, moreover, the term ‘final price’ should be replaced with ‘value’ – a value that is clearly evident in the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, which was showcased yesterday in Milan.

As always, the two designers have pulled off something of a creative miracle: coming up with a meaningful title for a collection that brings together pieces which are only seemingly at odds with one another: the 81 looks that graced the catwalk at the Metropol included day and evening wear, as well as jeans, bags and shoes that could inspire an exhibition dedicated to the intersection of fashion and skilled craftsmanship.

It’s not as though Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have ever been keen on the idea of preserving their creations in a permanent museum: they have always explained that they draw inspiration from the world around them, looking at younger people with great curiosity. Yet they have always relied on a rock-solid anchor, so to speak: Sicily, a land that encompasses many worlds, as writers and artists have recounted over the centuries. Hence the title of the collection, ‘Sicilian Extravagance’, and a brief introduction explaining the significance of the island’s traditions with regard to fabrics, craftsmanship and women’s wardrobes in the strictest sense. But there is no room for nostalgia: every reference inherited from the past is reinterpreted with freedom, lightness and spontaneity.

Jewellery also plays an important role: pearls, crosses, cameos, coral, brooches, gemstones and talismans are combined and layered. The jeans are striking: ripped, yes, but ‘stitched up’ with a row of safety pins or embellished with coral appliqués, or even ‘patched’ from the inside with black lace. Shoes and bags are both playful and very serious: the playfulness comes, for example, from the handles of the new versions of the Sicily model, which become sculptural arches, from the hand-embroidered flowers or from the colourful buttons of various sizes applied to the court shoes. The seriousness lies in the approach: there can be no shortcuts to creating a collection like this. Let’s look elsewhere for ‘craft washing’ – certainly not at Dolce&Gabbana.