Underwater paradises

Ecotourism: the new profession of coral gardeners

Revitalising the reef, boosting the local economy. Naturalist Titouan Bernicot, from Thailand, talks about his underwater park project.

by Marion Willingham. Photo by Noé Langronier

La sede di Coral Gardeners Thailandia sull’isola di Koh Mak.

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

I've dreamed of saving the ocean ever since I left school in 2017 to set up the Coral Gardeners project, my reef restoration non-profit in French Polynesia. I wanted to go beyond the Pacific, and almost ten years later, I can say I have succeeded: now my team has eighty people, including Berkeley scientists who plant corals, develop monitoring methods and raise awareness about climate change, and we are also active in the Indian Ocean. In 2022, Yodchai Sudhidhanakul, a businessman from one of the five families that own the island of Koh Mak in eastern Thailand, contacted us. He was concerned because he had discovered that the island's coral reef, one of the largest in the region, was in poor condition, and asked us for support.

Titouan Bernicot con un corallo Acropora nel Koh Rang Marine National Park.

Titouan Bernicot sul molo del Blue Pearl Bar sull’isola di Koh Mak.

First, I inspected the islands of Koh Mak and Koh Kood, which are about a thirty-minute boat ride apart, with some of our scientists. I found beautiful white sandy beaches and cultivations of caoutchouc (rubber trees). Koh Kood is bigger and further away: it has lush jungle with small waterfalls and old trees considered sacred, while Koh Mak is so small that you can get around it all by bicycle.

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Diving underwater left me speechless, I did not expect such a diversity of coral species. My favourite now is the bubble coral, with hard polyps in the shape of balls that almost resemble candy. The reef is also populated by small yellow stingrays with electric blue dots hiding, schools of colourful fish, soft corals, giant flat corals and sea urchins. But there are also areas that have been completely destroyed by global warming, ocean acidification and non-conservative fishing methods, such as the use of dynamite, which have severely damaged the seabed.

Not even five years after that first visit, Thailand is Coral Gardeners' third location and our biggest expansion project to date: we have a regional headquarters in Koh Mak, offices in Koh Kood, and employ a team of ten locals. We are trying to make local fishermen also become coral gardeners to help restore ocean life, and in the meantime we are building the first land-based coral farm on Koh Mak: this allows us to grow slow-growing species at an accelerated rate, dividing the corals into fragments and growing them in tanks: on our website you can adopt a Thai coral and follow our work.

Bernicot insieme al giardiniere Khun Yod presso il vivaio; a destra il naturalista controllai coralli Acropora.

SUMMERED PARADISE

Koh Rang Marine National Park is known for its scuba diving. It has beautiful brown rocks with corals resembling bouquets of flowers, ideal to explore in March or April because of the good weather conditions and excellent visibility underwater. I also like Bang Bao beach on Koh Kood, which is wide and heavenly. I admit that I am more attracted to diving than to food, but I must say that Thai food is really an adventure. The coconuts taste different on Koh Mak and Koh Kood - a bit saltier. I suggest the Koh Mak Seafood restaurant for the tom yum soup with ginger, lemongrass and coconut. For breakfast, I choose the smoothies and açaí bowls from Food Art Hut, while my favourite place to drink at sunset is the Blue Pearl Bar, located on a pier with a spectacular view of the island. Order a Blue Lagoon, made with curaçao, or a Leo, the local beer. I grew up on a small pearl farm in French Polynesia, so I am used to quiet islands. Here the locals understand that tourism is important for the economy and development, but they also know what to keep away from: rubbish, pollution (tourists should use reef-friendly sunscreen) and behaviour that disturbs corals and sea creatures (in Thailand touching a coral is against the law). I therefore recommend some green experiences, such as participating in a beach clean-up mission with Trash Hero Koh Mak, contributing to our project.

Il Blue Pearl Bar, visto dal Koh Mak Cococape Resort; a destra microframmenti nel vivaio oceanico di Coral Gardeners.

Koh Mak is among the one hundred most sustainable destinations according to the Green Destinations Foundation, and the locals want to get to the top of the list. We have a few bungalows at our headquarters, where we are developing ecotourism: we offer guests both educational workshops and diving and coral restoration experiences, but I also recommend Little Moon Villa, on the beach at Ao Ta Long.

Bernicot con il team di Coral Gardeners Thailandia.

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