Geographical indications

DOP and IGP designations also change (frequently): this is how the production regulations adapt to climate change and innovation

Between 2024 and 2026 alone, there were around 80 requests for amendments from Italian consortia: the reasons cited included improved food safety and animal welfare

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Even PDO products are changing. And with them, all products ‘awarded’ geographical indications recognised by the EU, which today face new challenges in adapting to the effects of climate change, embracing technological innovation, improving food safety and also catering to modern dietary habits and new consumer preferences.

Simpler rules

Between 2024 and 2026, around 80 requests to amend product specifications were submitted to the authorities by Italian wine and food consortia holding PDO, PGI, DOCG or DOC status. And the process is now shorter than in the past, given that the European Regulation on Geographical Indications, transposed into Italian law in May, no longer requires approval from Brussels, but only from the MASAF. This change meets the ever increasing need to speed up and streamline the process of adapting GI products to societal changes, whilst preserving their typical characteristics, distinctiveness and link to the territory. This is also significant in terms of economic impact, given that the “PDO economy” in Italia involves around 330 consortia and is worth 20.7 billion euros in production (19 per cent of the total national agri-food sector), and involves 184,000 operators and 865,000 employees (source: Qualivita Report).

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“It is crucial that the characteristics of GI products and the ways in which they are produced are constantly updated,” says Cesare Baldrighi, president of Origin Italia, the association representing the Geographical Indications Consortia. “This enables us to meet new consumer demands and ensure that production facilities and their staff keep pace with the times, given that we cannot expect to produce goods in the same way as we did even just twenty years ago.”

Ability to respond and adapt

Combining authenticity with modernity, and tradition with innovation, is the mantra of the GI world; it determines its vitality and evolution, but also its ability to respond to unexpected events. In fact, proposed amendments to the product specifications are often dictated by urgent circumstances such as natural disasters, market disruptions or health issues.

As was the case recently with the introduction of the measures to protect Cinta Senese from the impact of African swine fever. Or with the heat treatment of milk (heating to at least 60°C for 40 seconds) in the cases of Puzzone di Moena and Fontina, to reduce the microbial load of pathogenic bacteria. For the Valdostana PDO, the option has also been introduced to process milk from multiple milking sessions, thereby reducing working hours and energy costs, and to refrigerate it in the barn, so as to decouple milking times from delivery times to the dairies.

The effects of climate change...

It is, above all, the effects of climate change that are impacting the supply chain for PDO and PGI products. Extreme heatwaves, unexpected weather events and prolonged drought make it impossible to comply with the old production specifications and necessitate changes to them. Excessively high temperatures have forced producers to request an extension to the harvesting season for Etna prickly pears and to raise the water temperature in the ponds where Trentino char is farmed.

But above all, the new climate calls for new plant varieties. To avoid the risk of losing the entire harvest, the Olio Terre d’Otranto has requested the inclusion of four new olive varieties, whilst the consortium for the Arancia Rossa di Sicilia PGI has amended its production regulations this year, for the first time since the PGI was awarded in 1996, due to the need to introduce more pigmented varieties that ripen at different times and have a longer shelf life.

Climate change is also having a significant impact on animal products. Increasingly hot and dry summers have reduced the production of fodder for dairy cows, forcing the Pecorino Toscano and Pecorino Romano consortia to increase the proportion of feed sourced from outside the production area.

... whilst respecting animal welfare

Against this climatic backdrop, animal welfare has also taken on greater importance, particularly within the world of cured meats, in the wake of developments in pig farming in Italia. Improvements in genetics and rearing techniques (with an increase in the ‘carcass weight’ of heavy pigs) have led five consortia representing five different PDO or PGI raw hams (Carpegna, Cuneo, Parma, Sauris and Toscano) to revise their production specifications this year, for example by raising the average weight of the legs from 168 to 180 kg, both to increase the quantity produced and to better withstand prolonged curing periods.

In the dairy sector too, the protection consortia are aiming to strengthen their presence in the premium segments with more mature cheeses. For Pecorino Romano PDO, a ‘Riserva’ version has been introduced, aged for at least 18 months, whilst for Grana Padano PDO, the categories for cheeses aged over 20 months have been defined more precisely. These top-quality products also meet market demands, with chefs and gourmets seeking cured meats and cheeses with more distinctive character.

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Food intolerances and low-alcohol drinks

There is, however, another large group of consumers with different needs: those who suffer from food intolerances or have adopted lifestyles that lead them to make specific dietary choices. To cater for the vegetarian audience, the product specifications for Bra, Raschera and Stelvio PDO has authorised the use of vegetable rennet (and Grana Padano is currently considering this), whilst the specification for Ricotta di Bufala Campana has permitted the use of lactose-free milk in order to offer a ‘lactose-free’ product.

Among the IG wines, the latest offerings – which reflect recent consumer trends – are moving towards low-alcohol versions, such as those permitted under the regulations by the Garda DOC Consortium from the 2025/2026 vintage onwards.

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