Analysis

Excesses and forgotten privacy: why tributes to Giorgio Armani risk being the anti-Armani

Everything the designer detested - a profusion of details about his health, his physical shape, his private life - dominated the farewell to Armani, who built his existence and style on discretion, measure and sobriety

by Giulia Crivelli

4' min read

4' min read

The funeral chamber is closed, the funeral is today in a private form - really private, there will be 20 people there - and also today in Milan and Piacenza and Pantelleria it is city mourning. What will the Armani group be like without Giorgio Armani, many wonder, now that the memories and media excesses will inevitably slow down? Memories largely characterised by personalism and lack of that sobriety that the designer and entrepreneur always wanted to embody, in life, in his way of doing business and of course in fashion.

Addio a Giorgio Armani, re della moda italiana

No one can be like Armani, who passed away at the age of 91 having four roles in one: founder, chairman, CEO and creative director of the brand and group he founded in July 1975. Today, managerial and creative roles, all the more so in large companies (and Armani's, 99% controlled by the founder, had closed 2024 with revenues of 2.3 billion), are separate. In the last period of his life, Armani hinted that, if he could go back, he would have built his work-life balance differently. What he never reneged on, however, was the thoughtful sobriety - which included self-criticism - to which he imbued his work, his fashion, his private life and even his relationships, inevitably public, with film stars and celebrities from Italy and elsewhere.

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If there is a truly human way to remember him, it is to respect his measure, even and especially in fashion, which in recent years has lived on excesses and is perhaps in danger, in turn, of dying. What we have read, heard and seen since last Thursday, the day of his death, prompts many other reflections. Measure, balance, protection of one's private life, discretion, sobriety, media exposure, horror of excesses and shouting. Measured, balanced, jealous of one's private life, discreet, refractory to interviews and media excesses (on 'old' and new media, that is). These are some of the nouns and adjectives we have read and heard most since the afternoon of Thursday 4 September, used to describe Giorgio Armani and his life, before and after the birth of his brand, which dates back to July 1975.

Chiusa la camera ardente di Armani, in 16mila per l’addio

Photogallery65 foto

Wanting, however, to describe the media coverage of the last few days as a whole, it is best to use every possible noun and adjective, not synonymous but contrary, to those read and heard to remember or describe Giorgio Armani.

Leaving aside the sheer number of pages in the newspapers on Friday 5, Saturday 6, Sunday 7 and today, Monday 8 September - out of all proportion in itself -, I was particularly struck, almost wounded, by the behind-the-scenes reports on the involution of Giorgio Armani's physical condition over the past three months, weeks, days. Even more negatively I was struck by the gossip (?) and reconstructions (?) about Giorgio Armani's private life and his family. If there are two topics on which, I believe, he would not have wanted any details to leak out, it is his health and private life. What there was to say on the two topics he had always said in a - but look how strange - measured way.

On his personal life in particular, many, too many really, have pretended to be unaware that a few days before his death, in the communiqué announcing the purchase of La Capannina di Forte dei Marmi, Sergio Galeotti was mentioned as a 'friend'. Galeotti, whom I met in the Versilia club, was later a founding partner, exactly 50 years ago, of the Giorgio Armani company. But he was also a life companion and great love of the designer-entrepreneur: everyone - as they say in these cases - knew this, but the person concerned made no declaration on the subject for decades. There was, it is true, a discreet coming-out years ago, which Armani perhaps regretted, seeing that, precisely, in the statement ten days ago he returned to using the word 'friend'.

The final jarring element of these days is the amount of people - colleagues, close and distant friends, acquaintances, politicians and, yes, alas, journalists, etc. etc. etc. - who felt the need to give interviews, post photo galleries as if they were going to an audition or a shoot. - who felt the need to give interviews, post photo galleries as if they were going to an audition or a shooting. All aspiring to the title of 'author of the longest, least measured and discreet memory of Giorgio Armani, most publishable, posted, reposted, relaunched'. All self-appointed to take part in the contest inspired by the model "Goodbye Giorgio, how do I look?".

Let's be clear, expressing grief and sorrow is, as well as obviously human and legitimate, deserving and perhaps alleviates the suffering and emptiness left in those left behind. But grief and condolences must have at their centre the person who is no longer there, not those who express them (again, in my opinion).

Today the funeral chamber will close, tomorrow there will be a private funeral and public mourning in Milan and Piacenza, where Armani was born in 1934 and which last year awarded him an honorary degree thanks to the local university.

The semi-coincidence with Milan Women's Fashion Week, which starts on 23 September, and the 50th anniversary of the brand and the 20th anniversary of the Armani Privé haute couture collection, both of which fall this year, will almost certainly continue the reminiscence mode we have seen in recent days. Then, perhaps, the background noise will cease.

Personally, I hope that something remains of the Giorgio Armani traits that are praised and at the same time betrayed, almost scarred, these days. I hope that in this age of media excesses (public and personal), of shouting and slogans, of personal certainties passed off as universal truths, of invasion of privacy, of loss of a sense of measure - even, of course, in fashion - something really remains of the 'reluctant lesson' that Armani, in my opinion, gave to everyone. A lesson that, I repeat, revolves entirely around a thoughtful sobriety. A vision of the intimate and external world that does not exclude smears, temporary excesses and mistakes, as happens to every human being. A vision that, however, never borders on a disregard for oneself, for others and, I repeat, for fashion.

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