Excesses and forgotten privacy: why tributes to Giorgio Armani risk being the anti-Armani
Everything the designer detested - a profusion of details about his health, his physical shape, his private life - dominated the farewell to Armani, who built his existence and style on discretion, measure and sobriety
4' min read
4' min read
The funeral chamber is closed, the funeral is today in a private form - really private, there will be 20 people there - and also today in Milan and Piacenza and Pantelleria it is city mourning. What will the Armani group be like without Giorgio Armani, many wonder, now that the memories and media excesses will inevitably slow down? Memories largely characterised by personalism and lack of that sobriety that the designer and entrepreneur always wanted to embody, in life, in his way of doing business and of course in fashion.
No one can be like Armani, who passed away at the age of 91 having four roles in one: founder, chairman, CEO and creative director of the brand and group he founded in July 1975. Today, managerial and creative roles, all the more so in large companies (and Armani's, 99% controlled by the founder, had closed 2024 with revenues of 2.3 billion), are separate. In the last period of his life, Armani hinted that, if he could go back, he would have built his work-life balance differently. What he never reneged on, however, was the thoughtful sobriety - which included self-criticism - to which he imbued his work, his fashion, his private life and even his relationships, inevitably public, with film stars and celebrities from Italy and elsewhere.
If there is a truly human way to remember him, it is to respect his measure, even and especially in fashion, which in recent years has lived on excesses and is perhaps in danger, in turn, of dying. What we have read, heard and seen since last Thursday, the day of his death, prompts many other reflections. Measure, balance, protection of one's private life, discretion, sobriety, media exposure, horror of excesses and shouting. Measured, balanced, jealous of one's private life, discreet, refractory to interviews and media excesses (on 'old' and new media, that is). These are some of the nouns and adjectives we have read and heard most since the afternoon of Thursday 4 September, used to describe Giorgio Armani and his life, before and after the birth of his brand, which dates back to July 1975.
Wanting, however, to describe the media coverage of the last few days as a whole, it is best to use every possible noun and adjective, not synonymous but contrary, to those read and heard to remember or describe Giorgio Armani.
Leaving aside the sheer number of pages in the newspapers on Friday 5, Saturday 6, Sunday 7 and today, Monday 8 September - out of all proportion in itself -, I was particularly struck, almost wounded, by the behind-the-scenes reports on the involution of Giorgio Armani's physical condition over the past three months, weeks, days. Even more negatively I was struck by the gossip (?) and reconstructions (?) about Giorgio Armani's private life and his family. If there are two topics on which, I believe, he would not have wanted any details to leak out, it is his health and private life. What there was to say on the two topics he had always said in a - but look how strange - measured way.


