Ferragamo regains its strength and charm, whilst Scervino emphasises craftsmanship

Is identity something static or dynamic, solid or malleable? A stable core does exist, but then every experience changes the direction and realigns the axis. This applies to people just as much as it does to fashion houses.

Ferragamo proves this: having originated in the world of accessories – specifically shoes – the brand is, by its very nature, ever-changing in its aesthetic, whilst remaining consistent in its artisanal attention to detail and its drive to experiment whilst staying within the bounds of classic beauty. Furthermore, the current creative director, Maximilian Davis, has quite rightly taken his time to fine-tune his formula. For the past few seasons, at last, his Ferragamo has had an unmistakable signature: monumental, voluptuous, mature. This last adjective is important: Davis seems a world away from the perpetual obsession with youthfulness at any cost that renders so much contemporary fashion ridiculous. His women and men possess the self-awareness of those who have lived a little. Inspired by the 1940s – both the glamour of that era and the uniforms marking women’s first real entry into the world of work – the new collection is a highly successful dialogue between tailoring and fluidity, with an emphasis on curves rather than straight lines. Of course, this look back at that historical period revives the spectre of Saint-Laurent – with and without Yves – but the interpretation has a sharp, very Italian, very Florentine tone, and is therefore original.

The identity of Ermanno Scervino is a way of doing things – with the utmost care and a delicate touch – channelled into a constant pursuit of beauty – a serene, gentle beauty that is never defiant. A military-inspired jacket and a lace dress, in the hands of Ermanno Daelli, speak in the same way, acknowledging the complexity of the female audience and women’s taste for multifaceted personalities. This season’s theme is a pirate-inspired journey, with touches of irreverence: from mini pouffes to suits, via mini tailcoats fit for a march, everything comes full circle.

The identity of The Attico, so uninhibited and sparkling, is both multifaceted and clear: an authentic reflection of the personalities of Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, the creators of the project, and of their interest in a multifaceted exploration of femininity. This season, the duo’s focus is on the secret lives of women, as represented by the bed – on which the guests are seated. It is a fascinating narrative device, but otherwise little has changed: the vision that takes shape is a quintessential The Attico, just a little more rumpled and sleepy than usual. The sex appeal is high, as are the feathers and glitter; not for everyone, but consistent and convincing.

Massimo Giorgetti is entering a new phase with MSGM: the much-discussed logo change reflects an evolution in the brand’s identity, in that the shift from a bold typeface to a more subtle font conveys a sense of maturity, stability and calm. Let’s be clear: pop and colour are still very much present, but the overall tone is more understated, less adolescent.