Weekend readings

Flower, symbol, name: an unexpected tale around the world of the rose

Chefs, noses and designers return to measure themselves against the classic of classics. And an author's rosology explains the renewed fortune of the most beloved of flowers.

by Letizia Muratori

6' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

6' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

What is a rose? The most disliked of flowers - said a lady of my acquaintance when she received a bundle. She had an idea of dislike linked to practicality. She was not, practical, in fact she always pricked herself with thorns when she cut the stems of the roses she had lying in the bathtub, like a body. In short, the roses tested her, the one with the roses was a face to face with her clumsiness. She appreciated the gift, though; at the door she rushed to read the accompanying note, eager to know who the sender was, even when she knew.

'A rose is a rose is a rose' wrote Gertrude Stein in 1913, the year in which the above-mentioned lady was born. On closer inspection, Stein's diaphor does not exclude that a rose may be disliked by you, precisely because it is a rose, regardless. It is not: just a rose, although the verse suggests not to make a big deal out of making a big deal out of it. An ironic as well as lyrical masterpiece. A Rose Is is the title of the exhibition that the Flag Art Foundation in New York recently dedicated to the rose as object and subject in art. A title that quotes the famous line from Stein's poem, Sacred Emily, taking it for granted that it starts from there, and that the sequel is known. A rose is a rose is a rose, then? We know it. But do we really know? In reality, we always know more than we think we know. It blinds us, and underestimates us, the presumption of knowing. Self-deception applies, after all, to everything. A rose is a rose, at the same time, it is one thing, but different for everyone. The first rose in Stein's verse could be the flower, the second the symbol, the third a name or surname, the fruit of a social convention. In that brazen repetition of the same lies the metamorphosis of life. A rose is just a rose, a thing, and yet it has to be made long because it is always another rose, as unique as it is indeterminate. The rose that suits everyone, perhaps, does not exist, just as the world does not exist, there are so many to explore by relying on the category of variety and multiplicity.

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Tessuto “Plumes de Paon”, un bouquet di rose in lampasso di seta, TASSINARI & CHATEL. Clutch in pelle d’agnello con chiusura a rosa, RODO (790 €). A Roma nello spazio culturale PM 23 inaugurato da Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti, la mostra “Orizzonti | Rosso” (fino al 12/10)

The mature energy of the roses painted by Cy Twombly - the triptych on show at Flag - is already threatened by decay. Just as the 3,000 roses that made up James Lee Byars' sculpture, a red sphere, are destined to fade in real time. The rose is the flower of Valentine's Day, but it also appears on coffins, and has always been a declaration of love, and sorrow. The works dedicated to the rose, signed by well-known and very different artists, should be investigated individually; the thread that binds them, perhaps, is the flower as a mirror of the action of time on matter: living, or dying in the case of Candy Darling on Her Deathbed (1973), the famous photograph by Peter Hujar in which a rose lying on a sheet is the double of the performer lying in her hospital bed.

Since the worlds, we have said, are many, let us step out of the obnoxious species privilege for a moment, and give the roses to the wild bees, poor things, who are in danger of disappearing, and us to follow. What do bees do with roses? It is well known that they are not attracted to the flower. But the leaves of the Rosa chinensis, one of the most common, are apparently very useful for building honeycombs, and worker bees hoard them. The results of research - the article came out in Nature, not exactly the latest of scientific journals - confirm this, so the rose is essential for the survival of bees, even in urban environments.

Collana di alta gioielleria Gioia Rose Carpet in oro, diamanti e micromasaico, SICIS JEWELS. L’efficacia della rosa nel Fluide Contour des Yeux à la rosenoir, SISLEY (14 ml, 142,50 €). Ricciola e rosa canina nel menu Spine dello chef Moreno Cedroni con Luca Abbadir alla Madonnina del Pescatore(240 € bevande escluse).

Judging by some signs, nothing is thrown away from the rose. Even its thorns are used, the thorn powder, for example, enhances certain dishes. Moreno Cedroni could only be behind this alchemy. At the Madonnina del Pescatore they have been studying the thorny menu for quite a while, obviously focusing on the thorns of the fish, but there are also those of the roses.

My father, Agostino Muratori, is a botanist, and he has recently written a book (Collezione di spine, Bompiani) that recounts the evolution of his garden: 40 years of life, twenty of which he has spent filling it, and twenty of which he has spent thinning it out. We are talking about a garden of succulents, cacti and pioneer plants, creatures that bear the marks of the struggle for survival. It is certainly not a garden of blooms, but as in Cedroni's kitchen, roses are there, because of the thorns. They are allowed in because of that special contrast between the inviting flower and the defending, hostile stem.

Borsa Pièce Unique A/I 25-26, in collaborazione con l’atelier Lesage, ROGER VIVIER. Rose Star, fragranza con rosa centifolia, CHRISTIAN DIOR(100 ml, 295 €). Con il gelsomino del Domaine de la Rose Les Ô, LANCÔME (100 ml, 95 €).

Men really like roses. For historical reasons, the usual ones related to privilege, they were the first to study them. Reading On the Traces of a Lost Rose - a book in which Andrea di Robilant reconstructs the origin and history of a particular variant of the rose: the Moceniga - we realise that one of the first women to be able to afford the luxury of collecting roses was Josephine Bonaparte. She collected many specimens of old roses for the Malmaison. Marie Antoinette's rooms in the Château de Choisy, on the other hand, were carpeted with roses; between the queen and roses the relationship was still private. Tassinari captured these magnificent designs of colourful, voluptuous bouquets. While the Rosa moceniga animates the fragrance of the same name in The Merchant of Venice, a felicitous marriage of citrus fruits and the delicate notes of the petals of this mysterious specimen thought to be almost extinct in Europe, which di Robilant came across by chance while walking in a wood on the Venetian mainland.

Rosa Moceniga Elisir con un regale quartetto di rose nel cuore della fragranza, THE MERCHANT OF VENICE (100 ml, 160 €). Anello in oro rosa e diamante Rose Couture, DIOR (3.000 €).

Behind every ancient rose, therefore, lie time journeys, exploits and discoveries, grafts and contaminations between East and West; rosology is a subject for enthusiasts, but capable of involving anyone who loves stories. If rose collectors came later, and always in an elitist context, the power of the rose is combative, proletarian, early feminist: we want bread, but also roses, cried the English textile workers during the Lawrence strike in 1912. A cocktail at the Hotel Principe di Savoia, the Women's Strength, celebrates women's suffrage and coincidentally adds rose to vodka.

The queen of flowers, the Centifolia, cultivated throughout Christian Dior's life, returns, mingling with the maison's 'patron star', in Rose Star, a fragrance that is iconic in its assumptions, and very unexpected and original in its results. After all, we are talking about a tribute to the divinity who created the femme-fleur in 1947. Roses in fashion are many, variations in tune with the temperament of the stylists. The roses, and red, of Valentino, are not the Mediterranean, cinematic rose of Dolce & Gabbana. Dior's motherly roses, embroidered on cocktail dresses, or pinned to the waist, are not those of Schiaparelli, designed by Jean Cocteau.

Da La Tavola scomposta, piattino La vie en rose, in collaborazione con Tamu McPherson, BITOSSI HOME (34 €). Anello Rosina in oro bianco e pavé diamanti, PASQUALE BRUNI. Polvere di petali di rosa con effetto rigenerante e anti età, OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY (35,59 €).

Between roses and accessories there may be embroidery or sculpture, or both. Think of Roger Vivier and the recent revisitation of his archives inspired by the theme, the form, of the rose. Gherardo Felloni, the creative director, has interpreted it far beyond homage. Each bag is born as an intuition, a whisper from the past, the glorious one of the association between the Vivier house and Lesage embroidery. So a faded rose on a bodice, a velvet cloak woven in gold, a handful of hand-dyed petals, give life to the new creations. They are not bags, or shoes, but memories made tangible. While Rodo ventures into the long relationship between rose and leather, which here has the colour of chalk. A white that belongs to neither. A rose is a rose is a rose, and already from these suggestions, it is clear, and moreover we know, that the mantra tends towards infinity.

BITOSSI HOME, bitossihome.com. DIOR, dior.com. DOLCE & GABBANA, dolcegabbana.com. GARATTI, garattimilano.com. HOTEL PRINCIPE DI SAVOIA, dorchestercollection.com. LANCÔME, lancome.it. MADONNINA DEL PESCATORE, morenocedroni.it/la-madonnina-del-pescatore. OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY, buly1803.com. PASQUALE BRUNI, pasqualebruni.com. RODO, rodo.it. ROGER VIVIER, rogervivier.com. SCHIAPARELLI, schiaparelli.com. SICIS JEWELS, sicis.com. SISLEY, sisley-paris.com TASSINARI & CHATEL, lelievreparis.com THE MERCHANT OF VENICE, themerchantofvenice.com. VALENTINO, valentino.com. INFORM "Collection of Thorns", by Agostino Muratori (16 €, Bompiani). "Geography and Dramas", by Gertrude Stein (20 €, ibs.it). "On the trail of a lost rose", by Andrea di Robilant (15 €, montefeltrolibri.it). NATURE, nature.com. PETER HUJAR, peterhujararchive.com. THE FLAG ART FOUNDATION, flagartfoundation.org.

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