Industry

A third quarter of recovery for the Italian leather industry

The period ended with a decline of 1.4%, which was smaller than in previous quarters. We look forward to the EU-Mercosur agreement, which could open up new and interesting markets

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Signs of recovery for the Italian leather industry in the third quarter of the year: according to data from Confindustria Accessori Moda, the federation representing the sectors of the Italian leather supply chain, the period under review closed with a 1.4% drop, a more contained descent compared to the -4.3% drop in the second quarter and the -6.4% drop in the first three months of the year. It is therefore estimated that 2025 will close with a decline of 3.2%, which would bring the sector's turnover to just over Euro 29 billion. 2024 closed with a sector turnover of just over Euro 30 billion (Euro 2.8 billion less than in 2023, a decline of 8.6%).

With regard to the opinion on the trend of the volumes produced in the first 9 months of the year, the Rapid Conjunctural Survey of the Study Centre of Confindustria Fashion Accessories shows an improvement with respect to the difficulties of the current moment: in fact, compared to the first quarter (when the same question was asked), the percentage of negative indications - then 64% - has dropped to 50%, signalling an increase in production rhythms. The dynamics are confirmed by the ISTAT index of industrial production, corrected for calendar effects, which for the Ateco CB 15 heading 'Manufacture of leather and similar articles' shows a drop of 11.8% in the first nine months, less severe than in the first quarter of 2025 (-19.8%) and in the first half of the year (-13.2%).

Loading...

Export, historically a key driver for companies in the supply chain, posted a value of EUR 16 billion in the first 8 months of 2025, slightly lower (-0.9%) than in pre-pandemic 2019, but down 4.1% compared to the same period in 2024. The negative trend affected, albeit with varying degrees of intensity, almost all sectors of the industry: only fur is bucking the trend, with +9% on January-August 2024.

The analysis bygeographical macro-area of destination shows a slight increase in exports to Europe (+0.4% on January-August 2024), with opposing dynamics for France (-2.7%) and Germany (+9.5%). Significant signs of growth in the top 15 for the Arab Emirates (+21.3%) and Turkey (+15.7%). On the other hand, there was a decrease (-7.5%) for non-EU outlets: the Far East fell, with -25.1% for China, -10% for Japan and -13.4% for South Korea. The USA held up, at least in value (+2.6%).

As for Russia and Ukraine, more than three and a half years after the start of the conflict, the trends diverge, with Russia seeing a slowdown in 2025 (-17.6%) and Ukraine instead continuing on a recovery path, with an increase of 1.8%, still far from pre-conflict levels, which highlights the repercussions of the war on trade.

The eagerly awaited EU-Mercosur trade agreement is looked at with interest, as it could bring benefits to the sector's operators in a potential market to which, in 2024, Italy exported 73.6 million euro worth of fashion accessories.

With regard to employment data, in the third quarter of 2025, as in the previous quarter, the number of Wages Guarantee Fund hours authorised by INPS for companies in the Leather Sector (footwear and components for footwear + leather goods + tanning) recorded a marked reduction (-20.5% compared to July-September 2024). Despite this, as a result of the peak in the first quarter (+66.1%), the cumulative figure for the first 9 months is still slightly higher than the authorisations for the same period in 2024: from January to the end of September, 26.7 million hours were in fact granted, with a +2.5% trend.

In the first 9 months of 2025, companies and employees dropped by 2.8% compared to December 2024.

Among the most urgent issues for the sector is the adaptation to the new European directives on circular economy and sustainability: a challenging path that requires some precise guidelines, but essential to maintain international competitiveness. Alongside sustainability emerges the issue of skills: the supply chain needs new professionalism capable of integrating manufacturing knowledge with digital and advanced technical skills. Continuous training therefore becomes strategic to support innovation and at the same time preserve Italian manufacturing excellence.

Last but not least, internationalisation: according to Confindustria Fashion Accessories, it is essential that companies can count on effective promotion policies that are also oriented towards emerging and high-potential areas, so as to open up new development spaces and reduce vulnerability to external shocks.

"In these challenging times, I am pleased to report that, albeit weak, there are signs of recovery in our sector," commented Giovanna Ceolini, President of Confindustria Accessori Moda. "However, we must recognise with regret that many companies continue to suffer a drop in business, despite the extraordinary resilience they have shown and their determination to defend their jobs and the welfare of their employees. It is crucial that companies are supported at this critical time. For this reason, we are actively collaborating with our colleagues in Confindustria Moda, to which the textile-fashion-clothing sector belongs, focusing on the creation of a specific industrial plan for the entire sector. It is essential that our government puts in place concrete and targeted measures to support companies so that they can not only resist but thrive, thus contributing to the revival of a sector that is part of our cultural heritage and economic fabric'. Ceolini also emphasised the role of international fairs, recalling the recent presentation of the new layout of Micam and Mipel, the most important fairs in the sector, which will be held at Fiera Milano Rho from 22 to 24 February 2026: 'These events represent a fundamental flywheel for our industry, contributing not only to the visibility of our products, but also to the meeting between companies and international buyers. It is thanks to the invaluable work of ICE that we are able to attract buyers and industry professionals from all over the world, creating networking and business opportunities that are crucial for the relaunch of our economy. Trade fairs are not only occasions to showcase new collections, but also moments of comparison and innovation for our sector. It is essential that companies gather energy and resources to participate in these events, which can significantly contribute to the growth and competitiveness of Italian companies on the global scene. We are convinced that, by investing in trade fairs and supporting our entrepreneurial fabric, we can build a more solid and prosperous future for the fashion accessories sector'.

Copyright reserved ©
Loading...

Brand connect

Loading...

Newsletter

Notizie e approfondimenti sugli avvenimenti politici, economici e finanziari.

Iscriviti