For PDO raw ham, a sharp drop in sales in Italy

The real boom of the Covid period driven by pre-sliced packs to be bought in the refrigerated counter without queuing at the delicatessen is only a distant memory. Now the scenario is that of a flexion in consumption, penalised by rising prices. In the universe of cured meats, the great unknown is linked to the product that is the symbol of Italian charcuterie: PDO raw ham and in particular that sold at the imposed price and weight in packs. According to Assica data, in the period 2022-24, sales of cured raw ham in Italy recorded a drop in volume of 6%. An alarming figure even if disguised by the progress in values (+5.5%) triggered by the increase in prices. Suffering the most, as mentioned, were sales of imposed weight products, which lost 8% in volume.

True, exports are showing a positive trend, but it should not be forgotten that foreign sales still only account for about 20% of the turnover of Italian PDO hams. Driving the sector is still, and to a large extent, the domestic market.

Secondly, we need to open a reflection on the future of PDO raw hams, especially since they represent the lynchpin of Italian charcuterie. Parma (951 million) and San Daniele (385) represent a production value of about 1.33 billion euros. If we add the other 100 million or so of Tuscan PDO ham and Norcia PGI ham we reach a share of about 64% of the entire value of Italian PDO and PGI cured meats. A pivotal sector, therefore, and suffering crushed between the escalating costs of raw materials and the market's failure to recognise the greater value.

Farm profitability in recent years has been weighed down byincreasing breeding costs (such as feed), while falling demand from China has discouraged investment by farmers. Adding to this complex picture is the African Swine Fever, which has pushed pork prices even higher.

And then there are the market issues. Italian PDO raw hams are certified quality products but marketed as commodities. And so they have remained in limbo: they are not perceived as premium products (as perhaps they should be), but they are too expensive and far removed from consumer products. And sales, at the first hint of inflation, drop.