Luxury

Brussels imposes 157 million fine on Gucci, Chloé and Loewe for antitrust price violations

FILE PHOTO: The logo of fashion house Gucci is seen outside a store in Cannes, France, May 16, 2024. REUTERS/Sarah Meyssonnier/File Photo

2' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

2' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

A multi-million fine imposed by the European Commission on three international luxury companies for violating European competition rules. Brussels has fined Gucci, Chloé and Loewe (which belong to the three largest luxury groups in the world, respectively: Kering, Richemont and Lvmh) for setting resale prices for their products with third parties (e.g. multi-brand shops and online platforms, also multi-brand) in violation of European rules that instead provide greater freedom for retailers, to the benefit of end customers.

Unfair Practices

In fact, the three companies allegedly (separately) engaged in a series of anti-competitive behaviours: monitoring their retailers; imposing restrictions such as an obligation not to deviate from recommended retail prices; limiting the applicable (or even prohibited) discount rates; and imposing specific sales periods. Practices that interfered with their retailers' business strategies and, consequently, harmed the end consumer.

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The Commission had opened the investigation on its own initiative by carrying out unannounced inspections at the premises of Gucci (Italy), Chloé (France) and Loewe (Spain) in April 2023. The formal proceedings, however, had been opened in July 2024.

"In Europe, all consumers, whatever they buy and wherever they buy it, online or offline, deserve the benefits of true price competition. This decision sends a strong signal to the fashion industry and beyond that we will not tolerate this kind of practice in Europe and that fair competition and consumer protection apply to all, equally," said EU Competition Commissioner Teresa Ribera.

Million-dollar penalties (albeit reduced)

The three companies cooperated with the Commission and, as a result, received reduced fines which, however, totalled more than EUR 157 million. The highest fine was imposed on Gucci, a company of the Kering group, which was fined more than EUR 119 million (a reduction of 5 per cent on the initial sum); Chloé, on the other hand, was asked to pay EUR 19.7 million in reparations (against a reduction of 15 per cent) and, finally, Loewe will have to pay just over EUR 18 million, having had its fine halved.

Luxury prices: a hot topic

Il tema dei prezzi del lusso, che dopo il Covid sono saliti alle stelle, è stato uno dei più recentemente dibattuti nel settore che, dal 2024, si trova ad affrontare un periodo di stagnazione o, per alcune aziende tra cui proprio Gucci, di crisi. I prezzi dei prodotti di alta gamma sono stati infatti spinti verso l’alto, a partire da un reale aumento dei costi delle materie prime e dell’energia nel 2022, cavalcando una fortissima domanda localizzata nella parte più alta della piramide dei consumatori del lusso (gli ultra high net worth individuals, persone con un patrimonio netto di almeno 30 milioni di dollari, ndr) ma tagliando fuori una platea di consumatori cosiddetti aspirazionali che, secondo il report Altagamma-Bain 2024, potrebbe contare 50 milioni di consumatori nel mondo. Sul tema si sono espressi manager come Andrea Guerra che nel novembre 2024 aveva definito «un grave errore» l’aumento dei prezzi sproporzionato a quello della qualità dei prodotti, pur ammettendo l’impossibilità, per

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