Cnmi, Smi and Confindustria accessories

R&D credits, fashion united in no to total reversal The demands: from balance and write-off to legal certainty

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

4' min read

4' min read

If Italian fashion suffers from several internal divisions - linked to the diversity of production, customers, objectives - the topic of the research bonus seems to have recomposed the entire sector in a no to the voluntary return of credits used almost ten years ago.

The spontaneous payment of the Tax Credit for the years 2015-2019 for the research and development activities of fashion companies is envisaged, on a voluntary basis, with adhesion by 31 October. Then, in Article 74 of the draft Budget Law, a capital contribution worth about 190 million euro is envisaged, to be distributed over three years, to 'reimburse' (partially, since the amount is much higher: more than a billion for fashion companies alone) the companies that have voluntarily paid back, as a percentage of what has been returned. The National Chamber of Italian Fashion has intervened on the issue, requesting a hearing in the Budget Committee of the Chamber of Deputies, in an attempt to amend the budget bill and make an alternative proposal that provides for the restitution, deferred over 10 years, of 30% of the credit brought in as compensation. "We must not forget that companies, in this historical moment, are forced to operate in a phase of uncertainty that risks having a harmful effect on company budgets," said Carlo Capasa, president of Camera Moda.Sistema moda Italia and Confindustria accessori moda have also expressed their views on this issue: "The trade associations have repeatedly asked for a final authentic application to be issued that would restore what was established before 2022," reads a note. "Unfortunately, however, this suggestion, as well as that of arriving at a 'balance and write-off' that would allow companies to pay what was requested, albeit unduly, without risking company default, has not been followed up and only a capital contribution has been introduced for companies that adhere to the spontaneous repayment by 31 October. The subsidy will be granted from a fund of 190 million euro, to be approved in the future, (...) thus assuming a minimum amount of aid for each company'. The affair has had the merit of recompacting associations of companies that less than a year ago had parted ways: 'The entire Italian fashion and accessory system is united in its demand for clarity and legal certainty: Confindustria fashion accessories and Smi will continue to support the companies they represent, flanking them also in this complex affair,' the note reads.

The Altagamma Foundation, which brings together more than 120 luxury brands in various fields, also has a clear position on this issue: 'The interpretative turn of events, which does not include design and prototyping activities among the Research and Development activities eligible for tax relief, has generated a situation of serious difficulty for many companies and fashion members of the Foundation. What's more, in a delicate economic period,' say Altagamma. Which has 'repeatedly sent its recommendations to the government'. The Foundation's proposal is in line with that of Camera Moda, i.e. that the repayment of the credits - which were granted at the time - should take place to the extent of 30% and over 10 years. Altagamma's position is that 'the companies have acted in good faith and what is happening seems contrary to that essential principle of legal certainty'.

The reversal of the disputed tax credit on research and development expenditure is just one of the issues on which the National Chamber of Fashion has appealed to the Meloni government and which range from welfare to the redundancy fund for small businesses. The requests come at a critical time for Italian fashion, which is expected to close 2024, according to Camera Moda's Fashion economic trends, under 100 million euros in revenues.

With a view to easing the burden on companies that are currently dealing with a critical moment, the association has requested - as already promised by Minister Adolfo Urso after the Fashion Table on 6 August - an increase in the ordinary redundancy fund. The proposal envisages the recognition of eight weeks of lay-off - as an exception for the tax period - for companies in the sector with fewer than 15 employees. In addition, the association has requested a regulatory provision that facilitates and facilitates - where required by SMEs in difficulty - possible minority shareholdings and pure brand support in the capital of the artisan-manufacturing realities of the sector that are currently in difficulty.

Looking to the present and the future, Camera Moda also proposed the inclusion of contribution relief for employers and a tax-privileged regime for the pensioner who takes on the role of 'trainer' - with the aim of accelerating the generational transfer of skills - but also an increase for the year 2025 and stabilisation of the 'fringe benefit' thresholds at EUR 4,000 and EUR 3,000 respectively for employees with and without children, so as to boost welfare and incentivise workers.

There are also two proposals that are strongly oriented towards the protection of the supply chain. The first is the introduction of regulations that definitively certify an external control system for companies and limit as far as possible the pitfalls inherent in the supply chain: 'We are formulating a proposal for a law,' adds Capasa, 'that would be valid throughout the country and would envisage the establishment of a third-party certification for all companies operating in the fashion industry. The second is the establishment of a fund for the international dissemination of the values and image of fashion, by means of direct contribution to CNMI, with the aim of spreading the culture of Italian 'beautiful and well-made and sustainable' "through the establishment of an ad hoc fund whose management is entrusted to the association itself".

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