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Record-breaking watch sales in Geneva: watch auctions exceed $203 million

Phillips is the first to break the 100 million mark, Christie’s achieves its highest ever result, and Sotheby’s its best in over 10 years. The common thread is F.P. Journe

A sinistra cinque F.P. Journe Ruthenium appartenuti a Michael Schumacher offerti da Christie’s, al centro Cartier Portico il più costoso di sempre in asta da Phillips, a destra ELA Cartier Pasha Zidane 900 in asta da Christie’s

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Over the course of three days, three auction houses sold watches in Geneva for over 203 million dollars (166 million francs). There is cause for triple celebration: the market leader, Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo, was the first auction house in history to exceed $100 million in a single watch sale; Christie’s achieved an all-time high for its department (+221 per cent on the previous year), whilst Sotheby’s recorded its best result in over a decade. Almost all of them achieved a 100 per cent sell-through rate. Almost, because the world’s oldest auction house, Sotheby’s, fell just short of a sell-out by a single watch (of which there is no trace on the website). From these three auctions, it became clear that the collecting of rare watches (not necessarily from the best-known brands – quite the contrary) is deeply rooted and subject to repeated revaluations; that the average age of collectors has fallen significantly (Christie’s is the most forthcoming with data: 40 per cent of registered bidders are millennials or Gen Z; 19 per cent are new collectors). There was also a common thread running through all the catalogues: that of the independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe.

Top lot FPJourne Chronometre Resonance preserie

LE TRE ASTE A CONFRONTO

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At Phillips, ‘just’ half-a-million watches

The colossal ‘The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV’, held on 7 and 8 November, was the fifth consecutive live auction in which Phillips sold at least one watch with a hammer price in excess of 10 million dollars (a run that began on 9 November 2025, also in Geneva, with the most expensive Patek Philippe in history, a stainless-steel 1518, which sold for 14,190,000 francs / 17,631,075 dollars). The average value of the 217 lots in the catalogue was over $500,000, with 24 new world records and 17 watches selling for over one million francs. Under the gavel of Aurel Bacs, lot number one was the platinum ‘Chronomètre à Résonance Régence’ by  F.P. Journe, the only existing example with a hand-engraved polished rose gold dial, which sold for $10.59 million (8.68 million francs).

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Patek_Philippe 1518 oro giallo

Christie’s hits the ground running with Schumacher, Zidane and the Sultan

The auction house held its ‘Rare Watches’ sale on 9 November, the first under the leadership of the new global head of watches Remi Guillemin. A successful debut: the auction totalled the equivalent of $58.7 million (47.8 million Swiss francs), a record for the division. Once again, the top lot was an F.P. Journe, a limited-edition rose gold ‘Vagabondage’ with jumping hours and seconds, which sold for 2.54 million francs, approximately 3.1 million dollars. Also on sale were the five F.P. Journe watches from the ‘Ruthenium’ series that belonged to Michael Schumacher, all in platinum – apart from the brass dial plated in ruthenium – dating from around 2004. They fetched approximately 8.48 million dollars.

Among the iconic lots is the Patek Philippe ‘Nautilus ref. 3700/1 Khanjar’ in 18-carat yellow gold, with automatic winding. It was crafted in 1978 for the Sultan of Oman Qaboos bin Said al Said. Christie’s describes it as one of the rarest and most ‘elusive’ of all vintage gold Nautilus watches. The price? The equivalent of 1.26 million dollars. The auction also featured the second edition of Watches for ELA, a charity auction in aid of the European Leukodystrophy Association. This section raised $615,000 in hammer prices, net of fees, thanks to twenty watch brands and the highly personalised ‘Pasha’ by Cartier donated by Zinedine Zidane: Starting from a low estimate of 10,000 francs, the champion’s timepiece fetched 102,400 francs including commission (80,000 francs net).

Patek_Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon 5002

Sotheby’s: just one lot unsold

Sotheby’s ‘Important Watches’ sale on 8 and 9 November, meanwhile, totalled $32.1 million (26.3 million Swiss francs): this is the auction house’s best result in Geneva for over a decade. Of the 182 lots in the catalogue, 181 were sold. The average price per lot was just under $180,000, a figure never before recorded. This result builds on the momentum from the September sale in Hong Kong, where the auction house achieved its highest-ever total for a watch sale in Asia. Under the gavel of Clara Kessi, head of the Geneva watch department, the star lot was a masterpiece of watchmaking: the ‘Sky Moon Tourbillon’, ref. 5002 by Patek Philippe in yellow gold (circa 2007), featuring a double dial and twelve complications – ranging from a minute repeater to a celestial chart – which sold for $2.79 million (2.29 million Swiss francs, from an estimate of 1–2 million). Here too, as at Christie’s, F.P. Journe’s ruthenium piece took centre stage: the ‘Octa Chronographe Ruthenium’ in platinum (circa 2004) set the record (1.48 million dollars) for this version of the model, ranking fourth.

Rolex and Patek Philippe hand over the crown to F.P. Journe

The real surprise – though perhaps not so surprising, given the auctions of recent semesters – is therefore F.P. Journe. At Phillips’ mega auction, the maison’s 13 watches alone fetched $38.8 million: more than a third of the total proceeds. In addition to the top lot, the ‘Régence’, the titanium ‘Chronomètre à Résonance Tokyo Boutique’ fetched $7.5 million (estimate: 400–800 thousand francs), followed by the platinum ‘Vagabondage III’ set with diamonds (6.17 million), the pre-series ‘Chronomètre à Résonance’ no. 022/99R (6.02 million) and the ‘Tourbillon Souverain’ with a brass movement (2.55 million). At Sotheby’s, F.P. Journe also exceeded the one-million mark with a rose gold ‘Résonance’ (circa 2002), selling for 1.25 million. The diamond-set ‘Octa Divine’, the aluminium ‘Centigraphe Sport’ and the rose gold ‘Centigraphe Souverain’, on the other hand, sold for between 437,000 and 577,000 dollars.

Never without a Patek Philippe

Among the great historic watchmakers, Patek Philippe remains the benchmark. At Phillips, the steel split-seconds chronograph, ref. 1436 – one of only two known examples with an original steel case and dial – fetched $7.64 million, a world record for any split-seconds chronograph. The unrivalled classic, the 1941 Ref. 1518 (the first mass-produced wrist chronograph with a perpetual calendar), in its yellow gold version, fetched $1.36 million at Phillips and $1.32 million at Christie’s. It is worth noting that, in this case, steel is more valuable than gold: the world’s most expensive Patek Philippe is a steel 1518 (it is a proven fact that only four examples in this metal exist worldwide). At Sotheby’s, the same complications as the 1518 (chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phases) were found in the first yellow gold example of ref. 3970 from 1986 (‘The first 3970’), which sold for 2.05 million francs (a record for the reference and the second most expensive lot of the auction).

Rolex, Cartier and others: rarity, preservation, provenance

For Rolex, rarity and condition are the key factors determining the price. At Phillips, the famous yellow gold Ref. 6062 ‘Stelline’, recently discovered and originally purchased in Japan, fetched $2.85 million, whilst the Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6241 John Player Special sold for $2.32 million. The first part of the Pucci Papaleo Collection, featured in this catalogue (15 chronographs for $4.6 million), saw the square Rolex Ref. 3830, signed by the Milanese retailer Verga, triumph with a bid of $1.55 million; this is the record for a non-Oyster Rolex chronograph.

Cartier has taken centre stage with its Art Deco ‘Portico Mystery Clock’ No. 4 from 1924, one of only six ‘Portico’ clocks ever made, and the only one with a hexagonal rock crystal dial: at Phillips, it fetched $5.87 million, a record for any timepiece from the maison. At Sotheby’s, all 16 vintage Cartier pieces found a buyer, mostly above the upper estimate. Among non-wristwatches, also noteworthy is the 1914 rose gold pocket watch by A. Lange & Söhne, which changed hands at Sotheby’s for $749,000.

Independent and tenacious

The most striking trend of the season, however, was the rise of independent watchmaking. At Christie’s, all the independent watches in the catalogue – including seven one-off pieces – sold at or above the upper estimate. At Sotheby’s, the category was represented by over 20 brands – more than ever before at a Geneva auction. The prices achieved confirm the strength of the bidding. At Phillips, Philippe Dufour’s platinum ‘Simplicity’ – one of the earliest examples – fetched $2.4 million; Kari Voutilainen’s tantalum ‘Vingt-8 Inversé’, a one-off piece, fetched 1.86 million (a record for the model), whilst Roger Smith’s two-tone ‘Series 1’ sold for around 1.12 million. The ‘Opus One Tourbillon’, created by Harry Winston in collaboration with Journe, fetched $1.7 million – a record for the entire Opus series – whilst Sylvain Pinaud’s ‘Origine No. 2’ exceeded its highest estimate by more than five times, reaching approximately $744,000.

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At Sotheby’s, the 2001 ‘Millennium’ in yellow gold by George Daniels sold for $1.87 million, more than double the upper estimate and a record for the yellow gold model (which came third). Even more striking, proportionally speaking, was the surge in value of Urban Jürgensen’s rose gold ‘Reference 2’, dating from around 1992: estimated at 50,000–100,000 Swiss francs, it changed hands for $437,000. Also featured in the catalogue were pieces by Daniel Roth, including the ‘Extra Plat Souscription’ (273,000 dollars), and MB&F, with a unique piece engraved by Eddy Jaquet on the theme of ‘The Jungle Book’ (234,000 dollars).

Collectors are becoming increasingly international, with new tastes

The collector base is becoming increasingly global, with bidders from 69 countries at Phillips and 66 at Christie’s. At the Sotheby’s auction, there was a resurgence of interest in men’s jewelled watches: the Cartier ‘Crash’ ref. 2462 by Cartier set with diamonds (312,000 dollars), the ‘Nautilus 40th Anniversary’ by Patek Philippe in white gold and diamonds (343,000) and a unique perpetual calendar by Daniel Roth set with diamonds (296,000). Clara Kessi remarked: “We are witnessing an increasingly sophisticated and truly global market, in which collectors look beyond any single period, brand or style”, seeking across the board “quality, rarity and fine watchmaking”. Upcoming events will see the auction houses in Hong Kong and New York take centre stage.

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