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Giorgina Siviero: 'At almost 80 years old, I have rediscovered the freedom to sell the brands I love'

by Giulia Crivelli

6' min read

6' min read

There was a time when those who worked in fashion - creating it, producing it, selling it - had three polar stars: product, service and the use for which each garment or accessory was intended. Space for protagonism, (pseudo)philosophical reflections and interference of marketing typical of consumer products - at that time - there was little. From the 1980s onwards, the changes began, without any real direction, but which in little less than a decade overturned the fashion industry in every link of the long chain that makes it up, from the creative spark to distribution, from production to communication.

Fashion designers (a word invented in Italy, in French it has always been called, more simply, créateur) have become well-known faces and personalities, fashion brands have made their way into many consumers' dreams of glory and status, and companies have grown in size and know-how. From the 1990s to the present day, there have been so many disruptive changes (and perhaps more are on the horizon) that the current scenario is almost unrecognisable to those who began working in fashion back in the 1960s and 1970s, such as Giorgina Siviero, now a splendid octogenarian, a kind of cheerful priestess of womenswear.

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After an apprenticeship in architect Piero Verbinstack's studio in Turin (without a degree in architecture, but with the task of choosing, as a self-taught student, the materials for the various projects) and a year spent in Paris ("during the day I worked in a travel agency for students, in the evening I studied at the Alliance Française"), Giorgina returned to Turin, convinced that she would return to work for Verbinstack, but the harmony with the architect and his collaborators seemed to have faded. 'Perhaps they had not forgiven my flight to Paris, which I had done because I knew I was looking for my own dimension, even though at the time I had no idea it could be fashion,' she recalls without a shadow of regret or, worse, resentment.

With her white hair tied back in a little ponytail, vexed as she is, Giorgina resembles another extraordinary woman, Jane Goodall, the most important living primatologist. What they have in common, apart from the signs of gentle, natural and harmonious ageing, is their passion for the life they have chosen for themselves, as well as their curiosity and inability to be afraid of change. Perhaps this is the fulfilment, awareness and self-confidence that women could aspire to achieve. Another characteristic of Giorgina Siviero - typical of many people who witnessed the birth and then the growth of the fashion industry in Italy and around the world - is that her name and her role would have remained unknown to the 'uninitiated' had it not been for Covid.

'I was born into a very normal family and it was taken for granted that when you came of age you had to choose between studying or working. Less normal, when I think about it now, that my parents, and my mother in particular, allowed me to build a life and a future of independent thinking and economic independence, which did not necessarily involve marriage. Even if I later married, to a man I loved deeply and who is the father of my two children', recalls Giorgina Siviero, who in 1965 took over, with the financial support of her mother, the Simonetta shop, where she had started working as manager the year before ('the salary was 50,000 lire a month').

Today, even in small and medium-sized towns, there are no longer signs like Simonetta, which did not have brand assortments (Italian ready-to-wear did not yet exist and the French maisons were not distributed in the shops and had very high prices) but functioned for two reasons: the first is that we all need to dress ourselves and that women have always had the pleasure of doing so, even when they were not hammered by marketing.

The second reason for the life of shops like Simonetta was that those who worked there knew how to advise women, how to listen to them, how to make them leave more serene than when they had entered. However, Giorgina transformed Simonetta's 'anonymous' offer by introducing French brands, and thanks to word of mouth, the clientele in Turin increased exponentially, and after almost ten years of 'gavetta', she opened a much larger shop, with the San Carlo 1973 sign. Over the next twenty years, Giorgina divided her time between Milan, Paris and Turin, forging relationships with all the nascent Italian brands and their respective stylists or owners: for a long time - and to some extent still today - the two figures, the creative and the manager-entrepreneur, coincided and Giorgina contributed to the success of all the names that are still today symbols of Italian creativity and genius, from Armani to Versace, Dolce&Gabbana to Prada. Not forgetting the French, first and foremost Chanel. Giorgina supported requests to build spaces dedicated to individual brands in the main shop and invested in other spaces, transformed into single-brand shops, also in the centre of Turin.

"I have always been aware that I have lived as a witness and a protagonist of the evolution of fashion in Italy and Europe, particularly with regard to the transformation of single- and multi-brand shops, as I have opened at least twenty of them, alone or in partnership," she says in a small but cosy room of the Turin shop, which has always been called Sancarlo since 1973, but which has changed format since 2019, preferring 'amateurs' brands to well-known ones. The room is the space where she receives customers who ask for comprehensive advice on how to change, a lot or a little, their look.

"I had often imagined collecting the snapshots of my personal and professional life in a book, putting together good and bad encounters, declarations of love and memories of the opposite sign," she explains, shivering with fear of being misunderstood. "Let's be clear: I never thought I was writing to praise myself, to explain to those who had never heard of me that I existed, and even less did I have a desire to remove bigger or smaller stones from my shoes. I simply thought that what I experienced and witnessed deserved to be told. The forced break from Covid took away all excuses and I tackled the task, which scared me a little: writing is not my job, I can instead call myself a professional reader, but it is not the same thing...'.

The love for books, for the written word and for how it is offered is reflected in the choice of publishing house: Una passione smodata came out at the end of 2022 for Allemandi and is, first and foremost, a beautiful object. "There have been reprints and I don't think I am the only one surprised by the success of the book: we always have a small stock in the shop and whoever wants can buy it, but many customers arrive with their copy and want a dedication... I think even at Allemandi they are pleasantly surprised, publishing houses specialising in art are not used to best sellers" (ride). The book, almost 400 pages with various photographs of the eras the author has lived through, is dedicated to her beloved niece Anna ("I see extraordinary intelligence and sensitivity in her, but she is studying engineering and I don't think she will choose a future in fashion") and is opened with verses by Pedro Salinas: "Your task / is to lift your life, to play with it, to launch it / as a voice to the clouds, to reaffirm the lights / that have left us".

Giorgina Siviero continues to play with life, and her (very) serious amusement is Instagram. 'I never believed in e-commerce proper, we gave it a try when we opened the space where we are now, which is in my image and likeness. The offer includes Italian, French, American and Japanese niche brands. And the thing I love most is the collection I design and have produced in India, where I go at least once a year'.

And e-commerce? "I realised that it could not be an alternative to traditional sales, so we communicated on our social networks and on the website the availability of one-to-one digital consultations, like a virtual shop visit, which could be followed by a purchase. My daughter Elena started filming me wandering around and advising someone or helping one of the girls in a virtual consultation. Something fantastic and unexpected was born".

San Carlo's Instagram account since 1973 has almost half a million followers and - the dream of any manager who theorises multichannelity - leads to digital sales but above all to a flow of customers who, after the first contact and virtual approach, go physically to Turin, arriving from every Italian city and abroad. "In the last year we have almost doubled our sales, Elena says not to let it go to my head. I don't even think about it: after India I will go shopping in the showrooms in Milan and Paris, but I won't double the budget compared to last year. I am 80 years old, I believe that San Carlo from 1973 as it is today will end with me: I want to spend all the years I have left enjoying everything positive, without getting into a vicious circle of goals to be reached and exceeded. I am still too young to feel old and too busy to find time to die'.

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