'Grand Dessert': a multi-sensory gourmet journey at the Kunstmuseum in The Hague

It's dress rehearsal time and the Kunstmuseum in The Hague, The Netherlands, could not have chosen a better moment to invite visitors to discover 'Grand Dessert - The History of Dessert', an exhibition celebrating four centuries of sugary pleasure by tracing the evolution of dessert in Europe from 1600 to the present day. From classic Dutch desserts such as the vlaflip to refined royal buffets, passing by the sweets brought by ancient and new immigrants, from the Russian Charlotte to baklava, and then puddings, ice creams and irresistible cakes: in a riot of cute and pop colours, desserts become the absolute protagonists of a journey as fascinating as it is tasty.

Curated by author and TV face Janny van der Heijden together with museum curator Suzanne Lambooy, the exhibition starts with the simple observation that dessert is much more than an end to a meal: it is a symbol of social change, a tool of seduction and sometimes a testimony to inequality. Ingredients such as sugar, cocoa and vanilla often carry stories of a colonial past, while new desserts, which have now entered European menus, reflect the more recent phenomenon of globalisation. As Van der Heijden says: "Dessert tells stories of wealth and poverty, seduction and deception, domination and oppression - but above all it speaks of the love of dessert."

Osias Beert (1580-1623), Natura morta di Pronk raffigurante il ricco e il povero Lazzaro, 1608 circa, olio su tavola (collezione privata, con la mediazione della Fondazione Museo Hoogsteder)

Oltre ai numerosi oggetti d’epoca – tra cui stampi da forno, ricettari, servizi da tavola, dipinti e menù storici – l’esperienza si arricchisce grazie a un elemento sensoriale sorprendente: il profumo. “Grand Dessert” infatti offre un’esperienza immersiva e multisensoriale perché la delizia non è solo per gli occhi ma è anche una questione di olfatto. Profumi di spezie, vaniglia, cacao e note fruttate avvolgono, come fragranze evocative, l’incedere del visitatore in queste sale museali trasformati in luogo di delizie. Si potranno annusare dolci ormai considerati olandesi ma provenienti dalla pasticceria indonesiana come lo spekkoek e l’ Es Doger con cocco e sciroppo floreale dai colori smaglianti oppure il gelato persiano Bastani Sonnati: ogni aroma è un viaggio nella memoria olfattiva o una fuga in esotici sogni gustativi.

The exhibition also devotes ample space to the aesthetic evolution of sweets: how were they prepared and served in past centuries? What shapes and colours were used to impress guests? From aristocratic tableware to contemporary creations, historical works and installations by today's artists and confectioners alternate.

The exhibition is aimed at lovers of art, history and gastronomy, but also at families: a special room and numerous activities are dedicated to children. The programme also includes meetings with famous chefs, workshops, creative ateliers, film screenings on the theme of food, and tasting sessions with catering inspired by the exhibition.