Consumption

Hair products, fifth cosmetics family by purchase

by Monica Melotti

5' min read

5' min read

Hair care products occupy fifth place, by value, in cosmetics consumption in Italy with 10.4% of sales in traditional channels, represented by more than three quarters by large-scale distribution, 18% by sales in pharmacies and marginally by perfumery. Shampoos, with 511 million euros sold, closed 2024 with +6.1%; growth also occurred in after-shampoos, conditioners and masks (+7.5% and 174 million euros). Although more marginal in value terms, excellent growth dynamics emerged from styling products such as fixers and structuring mousses (+16.5%) and from gels, waters and gums (+12.0%). On the other hand, slightly less positive variations were recorded by colourants and coloured foams (+4.3%), with 178 million euro, the second largest family in terms of value, a sign of a consumption orientation more closely linked to professional salon service.

And with the summer, consumption increases. In fact, we often make the mistake of worrying about protecting the skin of the face and body from the sun with adequate sun protection, taking the necessary precautions, without giving the same care to the hair. Like the skin, the scalp and hair shaft can also suffer significant damage if exposed to the sun intensively and without protection. "Although all hair can be affected, some types are more sensitive than others," explains Armando Petracci, Framesi's national and international head of technical consultants. "Melanin, which is responsible for colour and the hair's natural defence, comes in two forms: eumelanin, which absorbs light and disperses energy, offering excellent protection from UV rays, and pheomelanin, which is much less effective at this task. Dark hair, in particular black hair, rich in eumelanin, is less vulnerable to sun damage, while blond and red hair, characterised by a lower amount of eumelanin and a prevalence of pheomelanin, is more exposed, as are grey and white hair and needs more care'.

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The SPF in hair sprays is not so crucial.

Many cosmetics sprays contain an SPF index that seems to offer direct sun protection to the hair, but in reality it is of little relevance: the hair, unlike the skin, does not have the same biology nor does it metabolise UV rays in the same way. "What really matters is taking care of the hair fibre through targeted actions: applying moisturising shampoos and masks helps counteract dehydration induced by the sun, chlorine and saltiness," continues the expert. "This keeps the porosity of the hair under control. Another tip is to wear a hat, avoid direct exposure and take breaks in the shade during the summer day to rest the skin and hair. In addition, keratin treatments play a valuable role: they seal cuticles, restore damaged structure and improve resistance to stress factors. Alongside hairstyling, nutrition also plays an important role: a balanced diet rich in fruit and vegetables provides vitamins and antioxidants that improve the skin's resistance to environmental stressors, an increasingly important factor in an era of climate change and more aggressive UV rays.

Le novità per proteggere i capelli dal sole

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Thinning hair: beware of the sun

When the hair thins, whether due to alopecia or the natural ageing process, the scalp is more exposed to external agents. In men with shaved or very short hair and in women with thinning hair, this condition means that the skin of the head loses the natural 'screen' provided by the hair, becoming vulnerable to the sun's rays. "Direct exposure, especially prolonged and without protection, can cause redness, sunburn and, in the long run, increase the risk of skin lesions such as actinic keratoses and skin cancer," explains Petracci. "To effectively protect these delicate areas, it is essential to apply a specific sun cream for the scalp or, alternatively, light products in spray or gel form that contain UVA and UVB filters, taking care to reapply them regularly - every two hours and immediately after bathing or intense sweating. In addition to cosmetic protection, it is a good idea to limit direct exposure during peak hours (11 a.m. to 4 p.m.), when the radiation is most intense, and to choose shelter under a parasol or in the shade. The choice of hairstyle can also make a difference: neat partings, tightly cropped hair or braids that leave large areas of skin uncovered can facilitate sunburn. To further reduce the risk, it is useful to wear light, breathable hats made of natural fibres, preferably light-coloured to reflect the sun's rays'.

Hair beauty routine

To protect hair from the sun, chlorine and saltiness, it is best to choose targeted products in gel, oil or spray form, also with UVA and UVB filters, and nourishing ingredients such as vegetable oils and natural extracts. The formula should be adapted to the type of hair: light water-based sprays for thin, smooth hair, richer textures for thick or long hair. Whatever the product, it should be applied to the whole head before exposure and reapplied often, especially after bathing or sweating, distributing it well strand by strand. "The evening, after a day in the sun, sea or pool, is the ideal time to regenerate the hair," concludes the expert. "Always rinse your hair with fresh water and wash it with a mild shampoo free of sulphates and parabens, followed by conditioner or a moisturising mask that should be left on for at least 5 minutes. Dry the hair at a low temperature, avoiding a direct jet on the scalp, and reduce the use of straighteners, irons and the use of elastic bands that are too tight and stress the fibre'.

The recommended products

Among the novelties, Framesi has developed the Morphosis Sun line, which protects and nourishes the hair thanks to natural active ingredients and an exclusive fragrance. The After-Sun Shampoo removes salt, chlorine and sand, while the After-Sun Conditioner with shea butter restores softness. The Protective Spray & Leave-in creates a light barrier against sun and external agents and keeps the colour brilliant. Hair Rituel by Sisley presents Brume Bouclier Protection, a spray treatment suitable for all hair types that creates a shield against pollution, sunlight, humidity, temperature changes, salt and chlorine. Ideal in the city and on holiday, it revitalises the hair fibre leaving hair silky and shiny. Sun Care Conditioning Spray from La Bioesthetique Paris is a two-phase spray treatment with a water-repellent UV filter that intensively protects and treats the hair structure, providing complete colour and weather protection. Diego dalla Palma Milano signs the SUN HAIR CARE line that protects and nourishes the hair with targeted active ingredients and an exotic fragrance. At the centre is Lychee Sun Protection, rich in vitamins and antioxidants, which moisturises for up to 24 hours, defends against UVA/UVB rays and keeps the colour alive, flanked by Curcuma extract for shine and softness.

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