Haute patisserie boosts Italian-made products and enhances a wealth of talent
A meeting with Iginio Massari, the founder of the Pastry Ambassadors of Italian Excellence, on the eve of three important appointments: desserts for the Andrea Bocelli celebrations, the Dinner of the Thousand and an autobiographical book.
4' min read
4' min read
The quest for perfection is the goal that accompanies him every day, "I'm still learning" an intercalary, marked with that unmistakable voice and no trace of false modesty. Iginio Massari immediately reveals the peculiarities that have allowed him to become the most appreciated of Italian pastry chefs, on the strength of a talent recognised all over the world. "Curiosity is the first, fundamental ingredient: it combines with stubbornness, and always pushes me forward. I am also supported by discipline and uninterrupted study, which nurture competence. To be successful, I finally believe it is necessary to learn how to communicate correctly, so that everyone understands. Be wary of those who use words that are too complex: it means they have something to hide'.
Class of 1942, from Brescia, blue-eyed and bright, Iginio Massari has written several books. In October, his autobiography will be published by Baldini+Castoldi. A tale generous with anecdotes and constantly evolving, like the list of projects that the Maestro embraces with indomitable enthusiasm. "I recently participated, as a member of the scientific committee, in the evening at Avella's Amphitheatre for the presentation of the Artis Suavitas awards. Destined to those who, with seriousness and dedication, contribute to bringing prestige to our country, this year they were awarded to personalities from the worlds of culture, entertainment and sport such as Liliana Segre and Massimiliano Fuksas, Mogol and Linton Johnson,' explains Massari, who defines himself as 'Italian to the core'.
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"I have always been committed to the recognition of the value of Made in Italy, of the knowledge and creativity that distinguish us, and I am therefore particularly happy that the green light has finally been given to the law that I have been pursuing for over two decades and which today bears my name. The Massari law, a historic step for the Italian food and wine world, provides for official recognition for the professions of pastry chefs, chefs and food artisans: the title of Maestro will be awarded, by merit, to the best exponents of the categories. "From dedicated artisans," explains Iginio Massari, "they will be transformed to all intents and purposes into standard-bearers of our country's excellence". Exactly as he has been, for over sixty years.
"My love for pastry was born between the cookers of my mother's trattoria, with an ice-cream parlour attached," he says. "Inebriated by the scents of vanilla and cinnamon, one day I fell into one of the large glazed earthenware basins where the creams were left to cool. I like to say that, from that moment, I was like Obelix, who ended up in the cauldron of the magic potion: he became the strongest in the world, I became the best at baking'. At 14, the turning point. 'I went to work in Switzerland, as an emigrant,' Massari continues. 'To enter the country you needed a work contract, a rental contract and a certificate guaranteeing your health status. The apprenticeship was not easy, but I was, and still am, a tireless worker: my alarm clock goes off between three and four o'clock in the morning, and I don't even think about retiring. Back in Brescia, Massari opened the Pasticceria Veneto in 1971, which became - also thanks to his wife Maria - the headquarters of an authentic confectionery empire, which includes five Iginio Massari Galleries (in Milan, Turin, Verona, Florence and Rome), numerous pop-up stores and the e-commerce channel Iginio Massari Alta Pasticceria, created by their children Debora and Nicola.
The latest acquisition is the former casino of Gardone Riviera, on Lake Garda. "An ambitious project, which will see us involved in a choral manner, gathering together with our family the best professionalism and expertise in the sector," explains the Maestro. "We have many ideas to make this place a unique destination, in a spirit of close cooperation with the new Gardone Riviera council". The historic Palazzo Wimmer will be transformed into a food and wine landmark, with ample space dedicated to events, ceremonies, and festivals. To discover the details, one must wait for the inauguration, scheduled for May-June 2025.
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