Interview

Hogan celebrates 40 years of growth and cultural and social change

Andrea Della Valle, Chairman of Hogan, Vice-Chairman of the Tod’s Group and a member of the Tod’s Group’s Board of Directors, speaks

Evoluzione e sorprese. A destra, immagine creata per il lancio del modello Traditional, legato alla decade 1986-1996. A destra: il modello Rebel, legato alla decade 2016-2026 (Hogan)

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

‘The fast pace of fashion and the need, in a world that moves ever faster, to always look ahead often deprive us of the pleasure of reflecting on the projects we’ve built up over the years, on the people we’ve met, and on the small and big adventures we’ve embarked upon. There are, however, certain moments and people that hold a special place in my memories, and one of these is Karl Lagerfeld, who designed a capsule collection for Hogan in 2010.” Andrea Della Valle is not one for long preambles or verbose dissertations, but when recounting the first 40 years of the brand of which he is president, he appears unusually talkative and reflective at the same time, and reserves a place of honour for Lagerfeld, who passed away in February 2019: “We all forget too many things far too quickly,” adds Della Valle. “That is why it is important to make the most of milestone anniversaries, such as Hogan’s 40th, to capture a story and give it its rightful place within the history of fashion and of our group over the last few decades.”

How did the idea of entrusting Hogan’s story to four young directors come about?

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I believe that cinema has, ever since its inception, been an art form capable – perhaps more than any other – of engaging the audience, of sparking reactions and emotions that become indelible memories. Gabrielle Chanel had sensed this as early as the 1930s, when cinema was taking its first steps. However, we have not chosen famous faces or well-known directors. Thanks to our collaboration with the Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia in Rome, we have instead opted to involve young talents, all born at the turn of the last millennium. We have named the project ‘Made to move, born to rise’ and will be presenting it this evening in Milan. We did not want to stage a self-celebration, but rather a genuine celebration of creativity and the interplay between the arts. Fashion, as we understand it, is one such art form: it captures or anticipates people’s desires; it does not impose, but gives them the tools to express themselves and make the most of their days.

What guidance did you give to the four directors, Paoli De Luca, Nicolò Folin, Gregorio Mattiocco and Sarah Nardocci?

The aim was to let them express themselves freely, condensing the story relating to a part of Hogan’s journey into a few minutes. They created mini-films of around three minutes each which, when watched one after the other, are the length of a short film. The project includes a more informative section, featuring photos of the original shoes and many vintage models; the cinematic section is designed to inspire daydreaming rather than to reflect on the past.

Hogan was founded in 1986, and she has often recounted how the idea of focusing on trainers came to her in New York, when she saw how widespread they already were there – even though here we still called them tennis shoes or gym shoes. Then practically all the fashion and luxury brands followed suit...

The strength of the Hogan brand does not stem solely from having been the first, nor from the realisation – or perhaps even the pride – of having been imitated by so many others. We have continued to grow over the past 40 years because we have evolved, launching new designs, but always in moderation, only when we felt we had created something genuinely different. We have developed new materials or improved existing ones, guided by a commitment to social and environmental sustainability that is in our DNA, regardless of any legal obligations or external pressure. We listen to everyone who works in our workshops and factories, as well as those who collaborate with us externally, because every suggestion can be useful.

Returning to Karl Lagerfeld, you’ve also been pioneers when it comes to collaborations. Are there any more on the horizon?

Capsule collections are inspiring for everyone, but there has to be a genuine spark between us and the creatives we invite to collaborate. It might be unexpected, but it must feel authentic – not something contrived. The aim is to set in motion a virtuous circle that allows us to reach – and be seen by – different audiences, without ever betraying those who know us. On the contrary: by showing our most loyal customers that we are not only reliable, but also in tune with contemporary trends and even self-deprecating. It’s not an easy time for fashion: to tell a story, as is the fashion these days, you need to have one – a story. Hogan and the entire Tod’s Group have one, and we want to tell it ever more effectively.

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