Behind the lens

At the home of great photographers: into the private world of Julia Hetta

His images are an antidote to scrolling. He draws on an ancient pictorial repertoire, from Hammershøi to Vermeer, and sculpts portraits and still lifes with light. An invitation to stop.

by Angelica Moschin

La fotografa svedese Julia Hetta nel suo studio.

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Swedish photographer Julia Hetta is an anchor in the visual tumult of our time, between endless scrolls and images consumed at the speed of light. She does not let the gaze escape, but invites it to stop. Her images are composed with the patience of a Flemish painter, illuminated by a light that seems to filter through a Nordic window and inhabited by an almost meditative stillness. Unsurprisingly, during our meeting, he quotes Hammershøi, Vermeer and even Tarkovsky: 'I like that the brain tries to decode an image, but without finding an unambiguous answer. It reminds you of a bit of this, a bit of that... That's what a real photograph is: it has to be layered'.

Cate Blanchett per “So It Goes”, ottobre 2017.

Contrary to what one might imagine, Hetta does not work with long exposures. Her slowness is more conceptual than technical. It stems from the time taken to pose, to choose a fabric, to direct a hand; all gestures that draw on the repertoire of ancient painting. "I have always had my library of images in my head. I have been looking at the masters of art and photography for years; they are my invisible friends. And it is this pictorial root that shapes my language, as much in portraits as in still lifes, where every object, be it a glove, a fan or a velvet, immediately becomes sculpture'.

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“Dior Magazine”, dicembre 2019.

This inclination is not only aesthetic, but deeply philosophical. "I never think of photography or painting as separate categories. For me it is always the way of looking that counts. Light comes first; it is it that shapes the atmosphere, that creates intimacy, that allows an image to stand the test of time. It is like sculpting with light, not simply recording it'. This vision, nurtured by an artistic training and an almost tactile sensibility, drives her to seek not instantaneity, but duration. "I want people to be able to look at an image for a long time, as one would look at a painting. That they find something new in it each time. That is where meditation is born".

“M Le Monde”, marzo 2013.

There is, throughout his work, an almost sacred idea of emptiness: not as absence, but as a space charged with potential. "Silence is not emptiness. It is what allows objects, faces, shadows to speak clearly. It is there that I learn to listen. And when I return to the studio, I take that silence with me. I literally put it inside the frame'. This attitude explains why even his still lives, whether a glass of water, a dry branch or a folded sheet of paper, seem to breathe: they are not compositions, but presences.

Her stylistic signature is recognisable from the very beginning. Hetta fondly remembers the series for Acne Paper: a blue dress, an apple, a clear light. "It was one of the first works where I felt I had my own voice. But then there was also the photographic series Dazzling Black, made for Dior Magazine in an abandoned house outside Paris: a blue-green palette, suspended interiors, Hammershøian atmospheres. I wanted to create a world in which time was frozen'. And the portraits of Cate Blanchett, in black and white, to whom she is particularly attached, where the actress's theatrical posture blends with her attention to gestures. "With her it was special: she knew how to use the body like a sculpture. It was there that I realised how much the complicity between the photographer and his subject matters".

Autoritratto in Polaroid per il libro “Sweden” di Louis Vuitton.

Yet Hetta does not live in an ivory tower. Her stylistic consistency is so ingrained that she is a sought-after contributor to fashion houses, cultural institutions and international magazines. But she does not adapt: she is always chosen to be herself. 'I have never compromised my voice, my signature. From the beginning, I have drawn clear boundaries. When a brand contacts me, it already knows what it is getting into. This clarity is not rigidity, but integrity. This is demonstrated by his work for the Metropolitan Museum of Art on Karl Lagerfeld: here he did not just photograph clothes, but constructed an invisible portrait of the designer, using his curtains as background, his shadows as subjects, his private objects as relics. "I wanted to make visible what inspired him: black and white films, literature, his love of shadows. I created something deeply personal, not foreseen in the original brief. For example, I only photographed the shadow of his fan, or that of a mannequin, because for him, the shadow was already form, already presence. It was a way to talk about him in a subtle and allusive way".

“Acne Paper”, marzo 2011.

Today, Hetta navigates between two worlds. On the one hand, commissions for Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Acne Studios or the Met, full of meaning, but condensed into one day; on the other, long-term projects, more intimate and free. In recent years, he has published three books: Island, the result of a pilgrimage to the island of Fårö with a friend during the lockdown, which is also a reflection on Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetics; Sweden, a visual diary in Polaroid commissioned by Louis Vuitton for the Fashion Eye series; and a third volume, Songen, forthcoming in Japan, set in the forests of Fukushima. "Going back to nature, working outdoors, takes me back to the origins of my photography. It's nice to rediscover the way I used to work in the beginning, before the studio, before the rush'.

“Pleasure Garden”, novembre 2019.

In an age of acceleration, his work is an act of gentle resistance. It does not shout, it does not impose itself, but merely exists. "Today more than ever, people desire something static, something meditative. Perhaps that is why there is a movement opposite to hyper-consumption: a desire for rootedness, for depth'. Shortly before we part, Hetta tells us movingly of an achievement she has gained over the years: the belief in collaboration. "Ten years ago I thought I had to do everything myself. Today I believe in the beauty of building something together. I don't want to be the deus ex machina of a project; I prefer to create a community, to share insights'. It is a feminine vision, perhaps, but fundamentally human. And in this openness to the other, in the fusion of discipline and poetry, lies her most silent revolution.

“Ssaw Magazine”, Primavera/Estate 2012.

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