In Australia where Vitale Barberis Canonico protects the most precious wools
Journey to the farms to discover the 'Wool Excellence Club' project of the Piedmontese wool mill, which has been supporting the rare production of Saxon Merino for 10 years
6' min read
6' min read
On the large table in the living room of the Taylors' villa on the Winton estate in Tasmania, memories of the first family to have bred Merino sheep in Australia crowd in. Among the countless prizes received in almost 200 years of history is the silver platter of the Wool Excellence Award received a year ago by Vitale Barberis Canonico, the historic Biella textile company with which the Taylors have long collaborated. Linking the mountains of Piedmont and the green paddocks of Tasmania is the fleece of the Saxon Merino sheep, a special breed that gives a wool of great fineness and value, and that the Taylors have been producing since 1835, when they bought the flocks from the family of Eliza Furlong: the Scottish entrepreneur had imported them in a whirlwind from Saxony, as the name reveals, realising first of all that Australia was the ideal land for raising them. With their small size, the lower wool yield compared to other breeds (3.5-4 kg of wool per head, compared to the 6 of the more modern ones), with the price of wool falling compared to that of meat, a more complex management that requires constant care, due to their less robustness, breeding Saxon Merino is done more out of philosophy, for the sake of refinement and excellence, than for economic convenience.
The Roles of Vitale Barberis Canon
This is why 10 years ago Vitale Barberis Canonico decided to support these breeders by bringing them together in a special Wool Excellence Club and rewarding each year the farm with the best production, in terms of quality and sustainability, with a cheque for 50,000 Australian dollars and a trip to Italy to get to know the company and the processes that transform a greasy fleece into precious fabrics. 'It is a way to support this production, to encourage people to invest in quality,' explains Alessandro Barberis Canonico, managing director of the family business and representative of its 13th generation. 'It is about building a long-lasting relationship over time and promoting an ongoing dialogue, both between us and the breeders and among the club's breeders themselves, to constantly improve production and make it more sustainable. In addition to organising annual workshops dedicated to breeders, Vitale Barberis Canonico adds a margin to the price based on the international market quotation, to reward dedicated efforts to achieve the highest quality. But in order to enter the Club, strict requirements must be met, which the Biella-based company sums up as 'quality, training, loyalty and sustainability', which means, for example, adherence to at least one protocol concerning Animal Welfare.
The preciousness of Saxon Merino
What makes Saxon Merino wool particularly precious is its fineness, between 13 and 17.5 microns, and its special crimp, i.e. the zigzag curling of the sheep's hair: its elasticity and resistance to compression give life to fabrics with a consistent and soft hand that always remain in shape, and its structure gives a special insulation that makes the garments suitable for both winter and summer seasons. This precious, niche production, suitable for amateurs and tailors, represents about 8% of the entire production of the company from Pratrivero, which at the last edition of Milano Unica presented The Saxon Club capsule, two types of fabrics for autumn-winter 25-26 made of pure Saxon wool. A strategy that aims to strengthen the highest segment of the range, the most resistant to consumer fluctuations and nervousness, crucial for the company that in 2023 celebrated 360 years of history and had a turnover of 166 million euros, 81% of which was generated abroad.








