Once-in-a-lifetime trips

In Namibia’s unspoilt wilderness, amongst cheetahs and sea gems

Refocusing our gaze on what truly matters. The power of light, the horizon etched between sky and bush, wild animals saved from poaching, and few signs of human presence.

by Barbara Sgarzi

La riserva dello Zannier Omaanda Lodge, poco lontano da Windhoek. (© pierre mouton)

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

It is a constant, almost physical presence that demands discipline: here, nothing can be superfluous, because everything is laid bare. It is a country that works by subtraction, reducing everything to the essentials and forcing one to slow down. The lines are clean, the horizons absolute. It is not an accommodating aesthetic, but an almost severe language that demands attention.

Qui, dopo il safari, ci si ferma ad ammirare il tramonto e si cena con i tavoli apparecchiati nel bush. (© BARBARA SGARZI)

WHERE TREES TURN TO STONE

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We realise this as we make our way to our first appointment. Travelling here means entering a world where even the journey itself is part of the experience. Distances are never neutral: they are traversed slowly, often from above, and serve to recalibrate one’s perspective. As in the flight that takes us towards the dune at Sossusvlei, in the Namib-Naukluft National Park, which, with its 50,000 square kilometres, is one of the largest conservation areas in the world, an endless stretch of shifting dunes ranging from ochre to red, which give way to the Atlantic Ocean. Nothing is by chance: the word Namib means ‘vast’ in the local language. From Windhoek Airport, the same one where we landed on arrival, we fly for about an hour over a stretch of red earth with a velvety appearance, barely marked by the white of the roads and tracks and interrupted here and there by piles of dark rocks, which seem close enough to touch, so near are they to the aircraft’s fuselage; scattered bushes, even rarer trees. The absence of human traces brings to mind the country’s population density, one of the lowest in the world: two million people spread across an area of 825,000 square kilometres, roughly three times the size of Italia. From up there, the desert seems motionless, but the moment you land, everything becomes unstable, yielding, alive. Like the sudden curving slopes rising up to 300 metres of the immense ochre sand dunes of Sossusvlei, one of the most astonishing sights in the world, even for those accustomed to deserts. After the flight, you reach it after an hour’s drive by jeep, with the light cutting the landscape in two – the red of the earth, the blue of the sky – before beginning the silent ascent of the dune known as 45, named after the air temperature upon arrival, though tempered by a dry wind that brings relief. At the top, the silence is surreal: a forest of black petrified trees emerges from an ancient, dried-up salt marsh, with a jagged base and cracks glistening in the sun. All around, an ocean of red sand dunes stretching as far as the eye can see conveys, at least in part, the scale of the Namib Desert, the oldest in the world, with an estimated age of 55.88 million years. No one speaks: faced with this sight of red and blue lines in the sky intersecting with the black of the tree trunks turned to stone, there is truly nothing more to say.

A LAND OF CREATIVE INSPIRATION

It is against this stark backdrop that Namibia’s connection with the Parisian high-end jewellery house Messika takes shape, inviting us on a journey of discovery to celebrate two decades spent following the trail of another form of pure light: that of diamonds. “Namibia has a very pure, minimalist aesthetic. It is nature to the nth degree, a primal, inspiring force,” sums up Valérie Messika, co-owner alongside her brothers Ilan and Ben. Founded in Paris in 2005 by Valérie, the creative director, alongside her father André Messika—a legendary diamond dealer whose technical and commercial expertise lives on—the house is now one of the most recognisable names in contemporary jewellery. Over ninety boutiques worldwide, a headquarters in Paris, a perfectly organised family-run structure. And a clear identity: minimalist settings, stones taking centre stage, a concept of luxury that prioritises movement and precision over ornamentation, as in the now iconic Move collection. Possessing a natural elegance, as cosmopolitan as the whole family and genuinely passionate about these landscapes, Valérie too is radiant, constantly in motion. ‘Namibia enters my collections not in a figurative form, but as an atmosphere of light, pure essence. I have gathered colours, shades and animal forms, which I do not, however, draw precisely, but rather evoke. I work by subtraction, as if I wanted to distil this land.” As we chat, the tranquil luxury of the Zannier Omaanda Lodge is an oasis of calm. Clean-lined architecture, raw materials, low-slung structures that seem to emerge from the earth, and an obsessive attention to detail, evident in the raw materials, in the punctual yet friendly service, and in the spacious rooms with windows wide open onto the bush, where light pours in and the vintage bathtub evokes the atmosphere of Out of Africa. And it’s easy to see animals passing by just a stone’s throw from the glass.

We see them even closer during the sunset safari. In the Omaanda Nature Reserve, lionesses, zebras, giraffes, elephants and rhinos appear almost out of the blue, without any staging, without chases or excessive drama. It is the landscape that dictates the distance, not the desire to see everything at once. Images that etch themselves into the memory, to be reflected upon during dinner in the bush, featuring traditional dishes and South African wines, where the evening always concludes with a glass of Amarula, the creamy liqueur produced from the iconic tree of Southern Africa, the Marula, also known as the elephant tree. If the morning light defines the outlines and the afternoon light softens them, the evening dissolves them. At sunset, the bush changes its rhythm and an al fresco dinner becomes a play of light and shadow: low flames, long shadows, simple tables all dressed in white. After sunset and before the stars appear, the sky turns an almost electric blue, infinite and breathtaking.

AN ECOSYSTEM TO BE PROTECTED

A natural world that appears so powerful, dominating the landscape. Yet at the same time, it is fragile and in need of protection. “We celebrate every day that passes without any poaching incidents. But to do so, constant monitoring is required,” begins Rudie van Vuuren, who founded the Na’ankuse Foundation with his wife Marlice and serves as its director. He says he is ready to answer any question, except for the one about the number of white rhinos living in the reserve; that is top secret, to protect them. In his moving account, he retraces the steps of what is now a well-established conservation project in Namibia. Founded around a clinic – van Vuuren, a doctor, felt a strong need to provide the San people, the Bushmen, the indigenous people of the Kalahari living between South Africa, Namibia and Botswana – it has, over the years, become a centre for the rescue and care of animals injured or orphaned by poaching. Today it comprises three nature reserves, a bush lodge, a city hotel and a school for the children of staff and volunteers. Thanks also to donations from numerous supporters around the world, including Angelina Jolie, who loves Namibia so much that she gave birth to her daughter Shiloh here; one of the three Na’ankuse Wildlife Sanctuaries now bears her name.

Bolt, uno dei due giovani ghepardi salvati nel 2016 a una settimana dalla nascita e ospitato, con il fratello Flash, dal Na’ankuse Foundation Wildlife Sanctuary, a un’ora circa dalla capitale namibiana. (© pierre mouton)

WALKING WITH CHEETAHS

It’s hard to pick a favourite activity on a trip like this. One thing is certain: in terms of thrills, few things come close to accompanying two cheetahs on their daily stroll through the bush. Before we know it, a gate opens and we find ourselves following, holding our breath, Bolt and Flash, two young male cheetahs living in the reserve. Far from being tame, of course, but they are accustomed enough to human presence to allow themselves to be admired as they trot along, play and climb a Namibian acacia, their feline elegance and nonchalance not even remotely marred by a forest of mobile phones snapping away. ‘It is because of humans that they have been orphaned, unable to learn from their mother how to survive in the wild,’ explains our guide, whilst we take turns to huddle up for a photo next to these marvels, close enough to hear them purring. With these images in our minds, we bid farewell to Namibia, which has taught us to see its light. And now it will be hard to stop doing so.

Collier Incandescence con diamante giallo da 20 carati, dalla collezione Terres d’Instinct di alta gioielleria disegnata da Valérie Messika e ispirata ai paesaggi namibiani. (© Yoann & Marco)

SEA GEMS

Gifts from the sea. Namibian diamonds are not mined from the earth, but recovered from the sea by dredging sand from depths of up to 140 metres. Of alluvial origin, they are carried by the Orange River to the ocean and shaped over thousands of years by the currents: “Only the toughest survive, and it is this natural selection that determines their exceptional quality, minimal waste and superior colour,” explains Ilan Messika, who, following in his father’s footsteps, works in gemstone selection and trade and also selects the stones for his sister Valérie’s creations. Ethical diamonds, essential to the country’s development. The Namibia Diamond Trading Company (NDTC), a joint venture between the Namibian government and the De Beers group, oversees and promotes local stones. At the Windhoek headquarters, we follow their journey, after checking the shoes on entry and exit to ensure that a fallen stone has not slipped into the soles. The gems then proceed to the André Messika Diamonds cutting and polishing laboratory. While the land reveals the raw light, the cutting process, carried out in a state-of-the-art facility, showcases its transformation. In accordance with the Sarine protocol, each stone undergoes scans that create a digital fingerprint, guaranteeing its origin, quality and full traceability, from rough diamond to finished gem. Thanks to 3D mapping, the craftsmen plan the optimal cut, preserving the purity and beauty of each stone. At the same time, the environmental impact of the process is measured, in particular the carbon footprint. In the final stages, gemmologists step in to identify, evaluate and certify each stone before it is sent to the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), where its quality is assessed according to the famous 4Cs: Carat, Colour, Clarity and Cut. Equally important is the social impact: the workshop has almost achieved gender parity; 95 per cent of the workforce are Namibian, and employees hold 25 per cent of the company shares. Before visiting, visitors are taught the basics of sign language, LIS. At André Messika’s request, around half of the workers are disabled, often hard of hearing, and a LIS interpreter has been hired to facilitate communication.

Dettaglio dal tavolo di selezione, la prima scrematura dei diamanti prima dell’invio al laboratorio ANDRÉ MESSIKA DIAMONDS. (© pierre mouton)

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