In Paganella, where children learn about sustainability through play

Watching the processions of pushchairs through the streets, the demographic crisis seems a distant concern. In Andalo, children are everywhere, running amongst the play equipment at Andalo Life Park and whizzing down the mountain slopes on their mountain bikes. Although the Paganella Plateau is one of the most family-friendly destinations in the Dolomites, its approach does not follow that of a huge amusement park, but embodies a philosophy, developed and refined over time: as Gianni Rodari observed, through play we can instil in young children an awareness and sensitivity – including towards environmental protection – which, it is hoped, will flourish throughout their lives. This approach is also embodied in the role of the ‘family coach’, who, in some of the village’s hotels – from the Piccolo Dolomiti Resort to the Piz Galin – offers families the chance to plan a bespoke holiday, suggesting a variety of experiences differing in type, location and even time of day: this is also designed to better manage visitor flows on the popular plateau, avoiding potential overcrowding, in line with the area’s ‘hotspot management’ philosophy. For children, this is also a highly effective way to understand the risks of overtourism, to engage more meaningfully with the environment and also with the local communities. Another equally effective opportunity is to try out the public transport system: between Mezzolombardo and Trento, the bus service has been enhanced with buses running every 15 minutes through the various villages on the plateau, allowing visitors to leave their cars parked as much as possible until it’s time to set off again. With the eco-system in place, it’s time to try out the area’s attractions: right in the woods of Andalo lies the Mega Bugs trail, a 2.5-kilometre route through fir and beech trees and clearings dotted with enormous wooden play structures that depict and teach visitors about some of the area’s most common insects. Staying on the subject of animals, in Molveno – an ancient village built around the beautiful natural lake (‘a precious pearl in an even more precious casket’, as Antonio Fogazzaro described it) – there is an interesting Fish Farming Centre where you can learn all about the Alpine char and lake trout, the Alpine species that inhabit the icy waters and which also form the basis of original, locally sourced recipes to try in mountain huts such as La Roda. Moving on to San Lorenzo Dorsino, a village made up of seven ‘ville’ – small hamlets – inhabited by artisans and filled with the scents of wood and hay, which you can explore through a special and fun treasure hunt amongst the ancient houses and fountains, following a map available from the tourist office. From there, you can also set off on a walk to the Fossil Garden in Val d’Ambiez, which recalls the Dolomites’ origins as a tropical seabed. To find another connection with the planet’s origins – and to remind ourselves to protect its future – the words of Henry Thoreau in *Walden* – ‘I went to the woods because I wished to live wisely’ – lead to the Bosco del Respiro in Fai della Paganella, where you can walk whilst being embraced by the tall beech trees that give off beneficial and relaxing terpenes, in accordance with the principles of forest bathing as revealed by expert guides (such as Massimiliano Corrà, who has even dedicated a book to the practice). City children play, climb, hug the trees, listen to the sounds of the forest, admire the sculptures formed by the branches and even appreciate the pleasure of simple silence – something to be shared and remembered, even by adults.