Israel

In Tel Aviv, life suspended between normality and war: 'It's not strange for us'

by Valentina Furlanetto

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

The pony-tailed female soldier walking in front of me at the Savidor train station in Tel Aviv is very young, she is bent over under the weight of the army-green duffel bag she holds on her shoulders. On one side she has hung a small pink teddy bear. On the other she holds a machine gun.

Tel Aviv is like this: suspended between normality and war, lightness and violence. Many post-adolescent soldiers with little beards crowded the station platforms on Monday. Many were returning home for the Sukkot holiday, which strangely coincided with the anniversary of 7 October and two years since the start of the war. Their presence, along with the photos hung everywhere of fighters and hostages, are a constant mental post-it note of the fact that even if it all seems normal, even if you don't remember it, the country is at war. And on the other hand, sirens sometimes sound. Yesterday, rockets, intercepted, were fired from the north of the Strip towards the central area of Israel, which responded with a raid towards Gaza.

Loading...

But for the most part, life is relaxed: the beach is crowded, there is sport on the promenade, restaurants serve elaborate dishes and exotic milkshakes, young boys smoke and drink beer. It's not just the surface: the stock market here has risen 200% in two years, the economy is doing reasonably well, the birth rate is surprisingly high. People grab a rifle or sunscreen depending on the moment. How all this comes together is hard to explain.

Eli is 28 years old, has a degree in engineering and works in the technology sector. Lying in the sun, he says straight away that he does not want to talk about politics, he is not interested: 'It is strange this life for Europeans, but it is normal for Israelis. We have been living with this situation for a long time, not just two years'.

Her friend Avigail, 27, has a degree in management: 'We live in a country at war and sometimes we are forced to go to shelters. But at the same time we can also go to the beach. Yes, it's all very strange'. I ask her if she ever thinks about what is happening in Gaza, just a few kilometres from here, and how she lives with this awareness: 'With mixed feelings: sometimes we feel guilty because we can enjoy ourselves while our soldiers are fighting'. Avigail, like many others I talk to, doesn't even think that when I say if they think about Gaza I am also referring to the Gazans, the more than 67,000 dead, the displaced, the destruction in the Strip. When I say what is happening in Gaza she only thinks of the IDF soldiers.

Eli isn't interested in politics, but politics is getting to him. He tells me that a month ago he was in Florence on business and the bartender started chatting with him and his colleagues after they had taken a bottle. "He asked us where we were from. I told him: 'From Israel' and he said: 'What? Israel? Shame on you! You should leave' and told us to just leave. This is the first time I've experienced anti-Semitism at first hand. You should explain to your people in Italy that in a country the government and the people are two different things. I try to tell him that the same applies to Hamas and the Gazawis probably, but he says it's not the same.

I ask him about the occupation of the West Bank, which Trump's peace plan, by the way, does not address, about the repeated violence Palestinians suffer in the West Bank from settlers, but Eli attributes these problems to the management of the Palestinian National Authority.

A little further on, Tamar, 26 years old and with three children, pushes her daughter on the swing. She is a teacher and her brother fought in Gaza. I ask her if she has seen that there have been pro-Palestinian demonstrations in Italy and if she has followed the Flotilla story. She smiles and shakes her head: 'I think,' she says, 'that people outside Israel are living in a fairy-tale world. They have no idea who we are dealing with. There are people from the Lgbt world who are doing activism for Gaza, without realising that if they lived there they would already be dead.

On the evening of Sukkot, Dizengoff Square is less crowded than usual. Many have gone on holiday, the temperatures here are summery. Those who have remained in the city divide their time between the commemoration for the hostages in Yarkon Park and the protests in Hostages Square. At the only open restaurant, many twenty-somethings sit, some of them probably soldiers on leave, sipping cocktails, avoiding the thought that the next day they may have to hold a rifle.

Copyright reserved ©
Loading...

Brand connect

Loading...

Newsletter

Notizie e approfondimenti sugli avvenimenti politici, economici e finanziari.

Iscriviti