Cycling in the Marche: the quiet wonder of discovery
Four days at a leisurely pace along back roads and through authentic locales. A perfect experience, even in autumn
Key points
Leopardi had imagined infinite beauty, through his gaze and his imagination, as he sought to look beyond the hedge of his home in Recanati. The Marche region is still like that today. Especially in the hinterland, amongst cities of art, small villages, panoramic views, hills and endless expanses of fields. In summer, the dominant colour is the ochre of the earth and freshly cut wheat, interspersed with the green and yellow of sunflower fields. Ochre is also the colour of the ancient buildings in the historic centres, the light-coloured brick differing from the red of Tuscan terracotta. From the sea to the mountains.
Along the back roads
As you move away from the coast, the factories and the many industrial sites that characterise this industrious Italian region – but also from the shopping centres, car parks and fast-flowing roads – other landscapes unfold. Another Italy, wrongly referred to as ‘minor’. In reality, it is a true natural heritage, still waiting to be appreciated and discovered. To truly enjoy such beauty and take it all in, you simply must slow down. Stop. Switch off. And try to immerse yourself in these picture-postcard views. On foot or by bike.
For some years now, the Marche Region has been seeking to promote a form of tourism that is not limited solely to the Adriatic, but rather a slower pace of holidaying – a chance to unwind at a more leisurely pace, in silence, far from the traffic and hustle and bustle of the coast, through walking and cycle tourism. This summer, a group of friends and I spent four days cycling along the back roads of this region. With the heat of the season just gone and the ‘red alert’ in force across many parts of Italia, the timing for this leisurely cycling tour wasn’t ideal.
The short but incredibly steep climbs to the top of the hills in the Marche region are every bit as tough as those in Flanders. They’ll break your legs and leave you gasping for breath. But in 40-degree heat, they’re not to be recommended. For me, the image that best sums up this short cycling escapade was the climb up the steepest route to the historic centre of Macerata, at midday on a summer Sunday. The sun was beating down. It was stifling. Not a soul was on the streets. At one point, dazed by the heat and exhaustion, I confess to having put my foot down and ‘conquered’ the climb by walking along the side of the road: I realised that my speed on the bike was the same as on foot. So I set off on foot, bike in hand. Meanwhile, some kind-hearted friends were waiting for me up in the ‘city of brick’, sheltering in the shade of a centuries-old avenue of lime trees.
Conero: sea view
Another unforgettable moment was the view that opened up along the cliffs and Mediterranean scrub of the Conero, overlooking the blue sea, just after we’d climbed up a fairly steep stretch there too, under a gentler morning sun and amidst a stream of holidaymakers driving down towards Portonovo.







