Outdoors

Cycling in the Marche: the quiet wonder of discovery

Four days at a leisurely pace along back roads and through authentic locales. A perfect experience, even in autumn

Il portico affrescato del chiostro della Basilica di San Nicola, che si trova a Tolentino, tappa della Ciclovia delle Abbazie

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Leopardi had imagined infinite beauty, through his gaze and his imagination, as he sought to look beyond the hedge of his home in Recanati. The Marche region is still like that today. Especially in the hinterland, amongst cities of art, small villages, panoramic views, hills and endless expanses of fields. In summer, the dominant colour is the ochre of the earth and freshly cut wheat, interspersed with the green and yellow of sunflower fields. Ochre is also the colour of the ancient buildings in the historic centres, the light-coloured brick differing from the red of Tuscan terracotta. From the sea to the mountains.

Along the back roads

As you move away from the coast, the factories and the many industrial sites that characterise this industrious Italian region – but also from the shopping centres, car parks and fast-flowing roads – other landscapes unfold. Another Italy, wrongly referred to as ‘minor’. In reality, it is a true natural heritage, still waiting to be appreciated and discovered. To truly enjoy such beauty and take it all in, you simply must slow down. Stop. Switch off. And try to immerse yourself in these picture-postcard views. On foot or by bike.

Loading...

For some years now, the Marche Region has been seeking to promote a form of tourism that is not limited solely to the Adriatic, but rather a slower pace of holidaying – a chance to unwind at a more leisurely pace, in silence, far from the traffic and hustle and bustle of the coast, through walking and cycle tourism. This summer, a group of friends and I spent four days cycling along the back roads of this region. With the heat of the season just gone and the ‘red alert’ in force across many parts of Italia, the timing for this leisurely cycling tour wasn’t ideal.

L’abbazia di San Claudio immersa nella campagna di Corridonia, borgo adagiato fra le valli del Chienti e del Cremone

The short but incredibly steep climbs to the top of the hills in the Marche region are every bit as tough as those in Flanders. They’ll break your legs and leave you gasping for breath. But in 40-degree heat, they’re not to be recommended. For me, the image that best sums up this short cycling escapade was the climb up the steepest route to the historic centre of Macerata, at midday on a summer Sunday. The sun was beating down. It was stifling. Not a soul was on the streets. At one point, dazed by the heat and exhaustion, I confess to having put my foot down and ‘conquered’ the climb by walking along the side of the road: I realised that my speed on the bike was the same as on foot. So I set off on foot, bike in hand. Meanwhile, some kind-hearted friends were waiting for me up in the ‘city of brick’, sheltering in the shade of a centuries-old avenue of lime trees.

Conero: sea view

Another unforgettable moment was the view that opened up along the cliffs and Mediterranean scrub of the Conero, overlooking the blue sea, just after we’d climbed up a fairly steep stretch there too, under a gentler morning sun and amidst a stream of holidaymakers driving down towards Portonovo.

Un tratto della pista ciclabile che si sviluppa sul lungomare adriatico

So, autumn… Autumn and spring are now undoubtedly the best times of year for lovely holidays spent cycling or walking, with milder temperatures and without the risk of getting sunburnt in the sweltering heat. Weather permitting, right up until November and the ‘Indian summer’, the Marche region is an ideal destination for long weekends spent enjoying its beauty, its natural surroundings, the rolling hills covered in vineyards and olive groves, right through to the tranquillity of the most secluded parts of the Apennines. An extraordinary variety of landscapes concentrated within just a few kilometres.

From the Adriatic Cycle Route to the Abbeys Cycle Route

There are various routes to choose from. The Adriatic Cycle Route can serve as the starting point for this cycling trip. The coastal route runs along the Marche coastline in two main sections: to the north, from Gabicce Mare to Fano, and to the south, from Porto Sant’Elpidio to San Benedetto del Tronto. The southern section runs almost entirely along cycle paths, whilst the rest of the route is yet to be completed. A network of cycle routes branches off from the Adriatic Cycle Route, heading inland (further details at www.letsmarche.it).

The Abbaye Cycle Route, for example, winds its way for 69 km from the Adriatic Sea inland. It links Civitanova Marche to Tolentino, with an elevation gain of 500 metres, passing through medieval villages, Romanesque churches, castles and expanses of vineyards.

Il tartufo bianco di Acqualagna, che sarà protagonista della Fiera in programma dal 25 ottobre

Another route, longer and more ‘wild’, is the Ciclo Appenninica Alte Marche. A 200-kilometre loop with 3,200 metres of elevation gain, which can be completed over several days and passes through nine municipalities: Acqualagna, Cagli, Piobbico, Apecchio, Cantiano, Sassoferrato, Arcevia, Serra Sant’Abbondio and Frontone. The route, which is equipped with e-bike charging points, follows secondary mountain roads, far from traffic, winding through historic villages and spectacular gorges.

The Great Sibillini Loop

For mountain bike and gravel enthusiasts, the Grande Anello dei Sibillini – a 180-kilometre route in nine stages along forest tracks and minor roads – offers the chance to explore the most picturesque landscapes of the Monti Sibillini National Park, spanning the regions of Marche, Umbria and Abruzzo. The route starts in Visso, the park’s headquarters, and passes through Fiastra, Amandola, Montegallo, Castelluccio di Norcia and Norcia, combining mountains, villages and unspoilt nature. For those reaching Castelluccio, a detour to the Pantani di Accumoli is highly recommended, with its dazzling greenery and natural ponds where horses come to drink. In this writer’s opinion, it is one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Loading...

La Sala dei Globi della Biblioteca Federiciana di Fano, ondata nel 1681 da Domenico Federici come sua libreria personale

Cycling destinations in the Marche region

“Focusing on cycling and cycle tourism,” comments Marina Santucci, director of the Marche Tourism and Internationalisation Agency (ATIM), “means investing in a different way of getting to know and experiencing our region. The Marche region is particularly well-suited to this: it boasts a network of routes that winds through diverse landscapes, from the inland villages to the coast, allowing visitors to combine outdoor activities, culture, nature and the exploration of the local area. It is a sector that enables us to attract a broad, international audience, one that is increasingly keen to choose cycling as a means of travel and to experience the destination at a different pace and in a different way to traditional tourism. In this regard, the Marche region is establishing itself as an increasingly recognisable cycling destination.”

Copyright reserved ©
Loading...

Brand connect

Loading...

Newsletter

Notizie e approfondimenti sugli avvenimenti politici, economici e finanziari.

Iscriviti